Swing back

This spring, Israeli fashion revisits the Jazz Age with color and creativity

By Beth S. Pollak|Last update: 05.09.05 , 12:47

TEL AVIV - When you enter designer Ron Mandelman's shop at 43 Sheinkin Street in Tel Aviv, Israeli jazz plays as a backdrop to the brightly colored, one-of-a-kind pieces featured along the walls.

"What's new this season are 1920s and 1930s dresses, with glamorous, draping fabrics, and deep, exposed backs," Mandelman says. "It's about a sense of escapism from an artistic perspective, but one that is suitable for all types of women's bodies."

While Israel's politicians are planning road maps for the future, Israel's fashion designers are looking for inspiration from the past, and finding it in the Jazz Age. This spring, women's clothing in Tel Aviv is taking cues from the roaring '20s, with pieces that comfortably drape the figure in light fabrics, tiered designs, and a combination of flapper and kibbutznik style.

At Razili stores, which offer clothing from dozens of Israeli designers, a 21st-century take on Charleston style dominates, with streamlined flapper fashion appropriate for both Israeli practicality and elegance. Short-sleeved shirts frill at mid-shoulder, and longer sleeves drift with graceful fabrics and angled cuts.

"Israeli designers understand Israeli bodies," said Shir, 27, a saleswoman. "Israeli designers understand Israeli summer. European designers don't have the answer for a heat wave in August."

Michal Zaiden's designs also play up the flapper theme, with down-to-the-waistline beaded necklaces over short tiered dresses. Shirts feature dropped, draping necklines, and knee-length skirts with wide pleats mark a sophisticated return to the past.

Back to the kibbutz

Anny & Adi Jacobson's new Sheinkin Street store offers tank tops, T-shirts, lightweight pants, and peasant-style skirts, with a delicate twist. Ribbons, beads, rhinestones, lace, satin and other ornaments are hand-stitched onto each item, adding a feminine accent to comfortable forms.

Many of this spring's pieces at the store also include graphic prints of kibbutz scenes and Israeli landscapes, which bring the clothes' airy pastel colors back down to earth.

"Kibbutz fashion has returned," said shopper Roni Segal, 16, of Tel Aviv. "Jeans are looser this season, pants are cut at the knee, and long necklaces are big. Everything is relaxed and draping."

At Yuli on Sheinkin Street, exuberant colors and revealing cuts offer a brighter, brasher version of the season's wispy style.

"The colors this season are green and gold, with some orange, pink and turquoise," said owner Moran Ban. "Fabrics like chiffon, satin, mesh and more are used to create shirts that float in the breeze, with a butterfly feel."

Popular items at Yuli are dual-fabric, two-tone tank tops with straps that wrap and tie around the neck, and shirts highlighted with shiny gold strips.

For those who prefer more fitted clothing and cuts, Cala and Fillya showcase cheerful summer shirts and dresses, and classy mid-length shorts. Subtle, creative touches - an extra flower, a hint of lace, an asymmetric neckline - grace different pieces.

A new, inexpensive alternative to high-end shopping in Tel Aviv is Gefen, which offers lightweight, kibbutz-style summer clothes with floral designs and stripes in all directions.

"The most expensive item is 180 shekels (about USD 40), and most pieces are not more than 89 shekels (about USD 20)," said owner and designer Gefen Har-Tzvi. "I design for all sizes in cotton fabrics, and this summer, I aimed for colorful and comfortable clothes at comfortable prices."