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Arrival of pomegranates on the market marks beginning of holiday cooking
Arrival of pomegranates on the market marks beginning of holiday cooking
צילום: shutterstock

Rosh Hashana perfect for seasonal eating

Jewish New Year turns out to be perfect opportunity to serve in-season meal while fully embracing holiday spirit

You might not think of Jewish cooking as trendsetting, but the truth is that it has been focused on seasonal recipes sporting local ingredients since long before farmers markets became the darling of the foodie scene. And the Jewish New Year meal, served on Rosh Hashana, is a perfect example of this fact.

 

While the foods of this holiday often are acknowledged for their emblematic value – think apples and honey representing a sweet year to come – they also are seasonal and practical because they incorporate what's on hand in late summer and early fall.

 

So, Rosh Hashana turns out to be the perfect opportunity to serve an in-season meal while fully embracing the spirit of the holiday.

 

Traditionally, foods are chosen that are both sweet and round. Round foods represent the circle of life that continues with the new year, said Leah Koenig, author of "The Hadassah Everyday Cookbook" (2011, Universe Publishing).

 

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Certain foods like bitter vinegars (and even some nuts) are avoided so the harshness of their flavors doesn't characterize the coming year.

 

Laura Frankel, author of various cookbooks including "Jewish Slow Cooker Recipes" (2009, Wiley), uses the arrival of pomegranates on the market to tell her when she needs to start planning her menus for the holidays.

 

"There's so much available at this time of year that you can tie in with the symbolism of Rosh Hashana," Frankel said.

 

Her recipes are available on cheflauraskosher.com.

 

We've created two seasonal dishes, a main course and a salad, that can easily be shopped for at your local market.

 

Honey-thyme glazed chicken with cider gravy has a sweet autumnal flavor. Baby spinach salad features a dressing made with pomegranate molasses, which can usually be found in the international section (among Middle Eastern products) of many larger markets.

 

Alternatively, boil down pomegranate juice until it becomes a honey-like syrup.

 

Honey-thyme glazed chickens with cider gravy

2 whole chickens (4 to 5 pounds each), giblets discarded

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt, to taste

Ground black pepper, to taste

4 teaspoons dried thyme, divided

1 large yellow onion, quartered

3/4 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup water

4 tablespoons butter OR margarine

1/2 cup honey

1 1/2 cups apple cider, divided

2 tablespoons lemon juice, divided

2 cups chicken broth, divided

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

 

Heat the oven to 425ºF (220ºC) and set the oven rack in the middle of the oven.

 

Pat the chickens dry with paper towels and rub 1 tablespoon of the oil over the outside of each. Sprinkle the inside and outside of the chickens with salt, pepper and 1 teaspoon each of the thyme.

 

Stuff each chicken with two onion quarters. Tuck the wings behind the back and tie the legs together with kitchen twine.

 

Arrange the chickens, breast side down, on a V-rack set inside a roasting pan. Roast until the chickens are golden, about 45 minutes. Remove the roasting pan from the oven and carefully, using paper towels, flip the chickens so that they are breast side up.

 

Raise the oven temperature to 450ºF (230ºC). Pour the wine and water into the roasting pan. Return the roasting pan to the oven and roast until the thigh meat registers 165-170ºF (75ºC), about one hour. If the pan dries out, add more water half a cup at a time.

 

Meanwhile, to make the glaze, in a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the butter and remaining two teaspoons of thyme. Melt the butter and cook, stirring occasionally, for five minutes. Add the honey and half a cup of the apple cider, then simmer until the glaze has thickened and reduced a bit, about 10 minutes. Stir in one tablespoon of the lemon juice and set aside.

 

Remove the roasting pan from the oven and brush the chickens evenly with a thick layer of the glaze (you'll have some remaining to brush on later) and continue to roast until the glaze is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chickens to a cutting board, brush with the remaining glaze and let rest for 15 minutes before cutting (do not clean the roasting pan).

 

To make the cider gravy, whisk half a cup of the chicken broth and flour in a small bowl until smooth. Set aside.

 

Set the roasting pan over two stove burners on medium-high heat. Add the remaining cider and bring to a boil. Cook, scraping up the browned bits from the pan, until the liquid is reduced by about half, about five minutes. Add the remaining one and a half cups of broth. Increase the heat to high and return to a boil, whisking often. Boil until the liquid is reduced by about half, five to seven minutes.

 

Whisk the reserved flour-broth mixture into the pan. Boil, whisking constantly, until the gravy is thickened, one to three minutes. Remove from the heat and pour the gravy through a fine sieve into a large measuring cup (discard the solids). Stir in the remaining one tablespoon lemon juice and season with salt and pepper, to taste.

 

Serve the chicken with cider gravy for passing. Serves 10.

 

Baby spinach salad with pomegranate dressing

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

1/4 teaspoon chopped lemon zest

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons honey

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

10 ounces baby spinach, large stems removed

2 small Hass avocados, peeled, pitted and sliced

2 small red onions, sliced into very thin rings

1/2 cup crumbled goat cheese (optional)

Seeds of 1 pomegranate (optional)

 

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, pomegranate molasses, lemon zest, lemon juice and honey. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside.

  

Divide the spinach evenly among 10 salad plates. Arrange the avocado slices and red onion rings over each salad. Sprinkle each with goat cheese. Whisk the dressing to recombine and drizzle over each salad. Top with pomegranate seeds, if desired. Serve immediately. Serves 10.

 

 

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