Jajo, one of Sarona’s best
Photo: Dan Peretz
Trendy wine bar showcases gourmet cuisine
The underground cavern at the former German Templer colony of Sarona has been reborn as Jajo, an establishment that celebrates not only fine wine but also a talented chef's innovative cuisine.
The evolution of Defense Ministry's Kirya complex near the Azrieli Towers in Tel Aviv into the upscale Sarona shopping and dining district has resulted in a new appreciation for the history and traditional architecture of the 19th century Templer community that once inhabited the quarter.
As we settled in to peruse the separate - and extensive - alcohol and food menus, we were delighted discover that the art of mixology has not been neglected here either. I started off with a specialty cocktail that combined Ketel citron vodka with a blend of strawberry, cranberry and raspberry juices, garnished with a fresh basil leaf - a sweet concoction that is both pleasing and refreshing.
Of particular note is the transformation of the German colony’s former winery, located in Sarona’s southeastern corner. After painstaking and tasteful renovation - at a cost of NIS 3 million (about $780,000) - the underground cavern has been reborn as the popular wine bar Jajo, an establishment that celebrates not only fine wine, but also the innovative cuisine of talented Chef Adi Levi.
Bon Appetit!
Buzzy Gordon
Adhering to religious dietary laws and enjoying fine dining are not mutually exclusive experiences, as a visit to the Red Heifer proves beyond any doubt.
The meal itself commences with a basket of house breads: brown raisin and a white flour ciabatta. Served with beurre noisette, a blend of olive oils and coarse salt, it is hard not to fill up on the fresh and crusty bread.
Jajo. A top-class restaurant and wine bar where customers can rely on the expertise of both the wait staff and the sommelier (Photo: Dan Peretz)
Our first course was foie gras torchon, on a black raspberry coulis. The incredible richness of the creamy goose liver mousse was tempered perfectly by the sweet-and-tart fruit; spread the mousse by itself on the accompanying fresh brioche for a few heavenly bites, then gently add coulis to create your own customized balance.
The precision of the chef is perhaps most evident in the preparation of the “crispy egg” that is one of the components of the endive salad. Imagine a poached egg in a light dusting of toasty batter, and you get an idea of the delicate touch required in the kitchen to achieve this unusual result. The endive itself is grilled and comes with roasted red onion, crispy shallots and a mild Caesar dressing. It takes a rare talent to even conceive of this overall combination of ingredients, let alone execute so well.
Another example of inspired commingling of ingredients is the bone marrow in smoked beef jus, accompanied by pickled radish and mizuna salad. The presentation of the marrow, studded with garlic chips, is striking in twin split bones; the slight acidity of the salad cuts the latent greasiness of the marrow. allowing its true intense flavor to emerge.
The Bloody Mary carpaccio sirloin is truly imaginative: the shavings of beef in a tomato reduction comes with a vodka chaser and sprout garnish to complete the theme built on the classic cocktail. Fragilely thin freshly fried potato chips add the requisite touch of saltiness.
The fish crudo dish proves that the kitchen is adept at handling raw fish as well. The catch of the day we enjoyed was fresh tuna, served on a cucumber cream and accompanied by a salad of raw cauliflower chopped fine with herbs. A hint of Uzbeki apricot lends a touch of sweetness to the veggies, while the pale emerald cream - enhanced by spinach and mint - was another ideal complement.
Moving on to the heartier courses, the ricotta cavatelli with shrimps is a remarkable pasta dish: in Levi’s version, half the pasta dough is cheese, while the sauce is a seafood gravy. The light and cheesy cavatelli, tossed with the rather uncommon ingredient salicornia and roasted cherry tomatoes, still manages to be quite filling and eminently satisfying.
The special pasta of the evening was crab-stuffed tortellini served on a bed of spinach over beet cream, with dollops of frothy bearnaise. Dusted with the gentlest sprinkling of bacon crumbles, the dish was a delicious balancing act of flavors, wherein neither the mascarpone nor the bearnaise overpowered the delicate crab.
While Jajo clearly qualifies to be in the category of a top-class restaurant, it is also most definitely a wine bar where customers can rely on the expertise of both the wait staff and the sommelier, who will be happy to advise on wine pairings to accompany each course. The designated driver can enjoy the house mineral water; Ferrarelle, which is reminiscent of Pellegrino.
The desserts are every bit as creative as the dishes that precede them. For example, one is named "Breakfast," and it features something I never would have dreamed could exist: Cheerios ice cream. The taste is unmistakable and spot on. The rest of "Breakfast" consists of coconut cream, granola, bananas and peanut butter - suitable any time of the day.
A classic dessert is the cheese plate: A carefully curated selection of four cheeses, ranging from soft to hard to aged, both imported and domestic. They are served on a platter with apple leather, saffron pears, pickled black raspberry, biscotti studded with fruit and nuts and caramelized hazelnuts. Bite after bite is exquisite.
Other dessert options are truly exotic: Olive oil cake made with the fresh fruit of the day (in our instance, fresh figs) and served with rosemary ice cream, pine nuts, candied citrus peel and orange creme anglaise. It was great fun eating the components separately as well as together.
Finally, no dessert menu would be complete without something chocolate, and Levi does not disappoint here either: Jajo’s "chocolate bar" rests on sesame crumble, and is enhanced by tahini ice cream and Sichuan chocolate powder. Indescribably good.
A bonus chocolate offering was a special dessert of the night: marshmallow filled with whiskey chocolate cream, on cocoa salt. A playful, fluffy delight wrapped around a cool confection.
It would be the rare person indeed who eats at Jajo without planning an eventual return.
Jajo
Not kosher
27 Rav Aluf David Elazar, Tel Aviv
Tel. (03) 522-5822
