Jaffa restaurant offers a taste of the USA
Just walking into Pundak Deluxe is reminiscent of entering an unpretentious BBQ joint in the southern United States.
Just walking into Pundak Deluxe is reminiscent of entering an unpretentious BBQ joint in the southern United States. Patrons sit on metal folding chairs at wooden plank tables; plates are small square tin trays; the menus - available in both Hebrew and English (although even the Hebrew ones are half English) - are mimeographed sheets attached to clipboards. Most of the tables are in an enclosed outdoor area, kept warm by very efficient heaters.
I ordered the "spicy margarita" - a classic margarita made with pineapple juice instead of lime, and garnished with three slices of fiery red chili, from the fattest part of the pepper. I like the combination of sweet and spicy, and the way the heat cuts the sweetness of the thick fruit nectar - although unless you have a particularly high tolerance for chili, you might want to ask the bartender to tone down the heat a bit, and maybe serve the slices of chili on the side.
My companion ordered the Frisco sour, an inspired blend of bourbon, sour mix and egg yolk. Given the Tennessee origin of bourbon - the heart of BBQ country - this mellow drink really gets you in the mood for the main event.
We knew we had to start with the baby back ribs, the hallmark of any self-respecting barbecue restaurant. Beyond that, we were happy to accept the suggestions of our friendly and knowledgeable waitress, who started by setting out and explaining Pundak Deluxe’s homemade condiments: Mustard, beet ketchup, horseradish mayo and BBQ sauce.
The platter of ribs arrived with corn bread, in true Dixie tradition. This version was served in rather dainty slices, however, as if it were a loaf cake; and indeed, the level of sweetness verged on a stateside corn muffin.
The ribs themselves were fall-off-the-bone tender, and a pleasure to eat with your hands. Although they tasted like they had been seasoned with a dry rub of some kind, the liquidy BBQ sauce was a fine complement, adding smokiness as well as flavor.
Next came Pundak Deluxe’s signature gouda-and-thyme sausage. Not only was the meat juicy, the cheese literally oozed out of the casing; the combination of flavors was intensely rich and lip-smacking good, with and without the mustard. It practically cried out for a crusty, yeasty roll or rustic bread to eat with it, but we had to make do with the corn bread.
The first side dishes to come were the coleslaw, and a house specialty: Torn fried potatoes. The latter are an inventive treat: small potatoes are baked, and then flash-fried in their skins and served piping hot. The crunchy, salty exterior yields to a fluffy white interior; these potatoes are great, whether eaten plain or with the beet ketchup.
The coleslaw here - slathered in a creamy dressing - features thick-cut cabbage and diced celery, as well as slices of red onion and green apple. With no carrot, it is more like a salad than typical coleslaw, but it is certainly an acceptable substitute.
Our second round of assorted smoked meats starred a few more exceptional offerings. In the beef category, there is something called "pequeña" In Hebrew and "beef Czech" in English - but which the waitress said was rump steak; in any case, it tasted like entrecôte.
The asado, meanwhile, is actually beef short ribs - charred on the outside, the horseradish sauce was the best foil for the red and pungent meat underneath.
The pork neck was very reminiscent of a smoked chop, cut a bit thinner; a tad on the dry side, it benefited from some extra BBQ sauce.
The goose breast turned out to be our favorite delicacy of the evening; it was melt-in-your-mouth delicious.
The sides for the second half of our meal were the baked beans, and mac and cheese.
The beans were very different from the usual American fare, which are generally sweet and tangy, with maybe some bacon bits. This dish - actually half beans and half shredded brisket - tasted remarkably like cholent.
The macaroni and cheese was probably the closest to the American original of all the sides: real comfort food, it had me scraping the sides of the cardboard container it came in.
There are four desserts, including American classics like chocolate fudge cake and New York cheesecake. Our waitress, however, recommended the crack pie, so named because of its alleged addictive quality. The pie filling, consisting of oats in a crême anglaise, is decadently rich - and was pushed over the top by the accompanying sour cream and red currant coulis.
The restaurant’s motto is: "We cook our meat low and slow - Use only natural wood." It’s good to know Pundak Deluxe lives up to its slogan.
Pundak Deluxe
Not kosher
7 Olei Zion Street, Jaffa
Tel. (03) 523-3186
