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Onza's Gaziantep kebab
Buzzy Gordon

A Jaffa trio: Onza, Goldman's Court , Caffe Yafo

Reviews: Onza rocks with a modern interpretation of Turkish food; Goldman’s deck serves up prime beachfront; Caffe Yafo carves out a kosher niche.

Onza was the first restaurant of acclaimed chef Yossi Shitreet, whose empire now includes acclaimed restaurants Kitchen Market and Mashya. Onza has evolved since Shitreet ceased his day-to-day involvement in the establishment: the restaurant’s slogan now is “food and vibe”—and along with the revamped menu, there is Turkish music on Sundays and live music Mondays and Fridays.

 

 

Most of Onza’s tables are al fresco, in a quaint side street adjacent to the flea market. It is the kind of place that calls for starting off with a drink, and the nine specialty cocktails make that idea especially appealing. The smoked margarita—tequila reposado, Grand Marnier, citrus and orange bitters, served in a martini glass rimmed with sugar—is complex yet mellow, imparting a sweet finish. The wheat mojito—rum, St. Germain, lime and wheat beer, garnished with fresh mint—is very refreshing, like a shandy on steroids. There is also an extensive wine list, with vintages from around the world.

 

The mezze here are unique and absolutely fabulous: a sesame bagel, Mideast-style, is perfect for dipping in the warm eggplant made with yogurt, butter and chopped pistachio, as well as in the hummus-like fava bean cream with a dollop of grape leaf skhoug that imparts just the right amount of heat.

 

Onza's mezze
Onza's mezze

 

The pachanga borek, which resembles a Moroccan cigar filled with succulent smoked sausage and leeks, goes well with the gigik—Turkish tzaziki from sheep yogurt, cucumber and mint, with a splash of olive oil and a sprinkling of zaatar. And the tomato salad with walnuts and feta cheese in pomegranate syrup, garnished with green chili pepper, is a symphony of flavors.

 

Our first main course was the seafood pan: shrimp, calamari, mussels, chickpeas and artichokes in a distinctive marinière sauce made with raki instead of wine. A nice touch was warm lafa with kashkaval to mop up every last drop of the juice.

 

Onza's seafood pan
Onza's seafood pan

 

The second entrée was Gaziantep kebab: two skewers of herb-seasoned ground lamb on a bed of eggplant cooked in butter, under a drizzle of tehina sweetened with pomegranate syrup. A truly inspired combination.

 

Onza's Gaziantep kebab
Onza's Gaziantep kebab

 

The dessert menu, delivered orally, comprises two western and two Mediterranean options. The knaffeh with yogurt mousse and white chocolate, which takes 15 minutes to prepare, is well worth the wait. The malabi on lotus cream with caramelized fruit and sprinklings of toasted coconut is another sweet delight.

 

Onza

Not kosher

Rabbi Hanina Street 3, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

Tel. (03) 648-6060

 

Beachfront relaxation at Goldman’s Court  

There is an expansive deck perched over the beach at the northern edge of Jaffa, with a panoramic view of the sea, the Tel Aviv shoreline and the illuminated old port of Jaffa. The ever so slight elevation is ideal for catching the breeze. Few things are as pleasant on a summer’s eve as sipping a drink—perhaps the excellent house wine, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve from Gamla—as the sun sets on the horizon, while a cooling, soft wind wafts in and chases away the heat of the day. This is the experience one may enjoy at Goldman Garden—a.k.a. Goldman’s Court—the Tel Aviv incarnation of what once was Pini Bahatzer, orginally from Jerusalem.

 

As a Middle Eastern restaurant, Goldman offers an array of mazettim; among the standouts are a zesty taramasalata—white ikra with black fish eggs—and eggplant with tomatoes accented with mint. These paired nicely with the warm focaccia topped with coarse salt and a sprig of rosemary. An additional very good appetizer is zucchini stuffed with ground beef and lamb, along with shallots.

 

The menu continues with a well-balanced selection of fish, seafood and meat. The grilled whole sea bass in chipotle butter and cumin with roasted red peppers was moist, flavorful and seasoned just right. The shrimp and grilled artichoke hearts were served in a Mediterranean sauce that was pleasantly lemony and garlicky.

 

Once again, the desserts were not on any menu, but were presented to us by our waitress. The nougat bars with chocolate, amarena cherries and whipped cream was notable, but the real standout in this category was the vanilla risotto—a scoop of pistachio ice cream atop a bed of rice pudding enhanced by kadaif, fresh fruit and cassis syrup.

 

Goldman's vanilla risotto
Goldman's vanilla risotto

 

Another bonus that comes with the ambience and food at Goldman Garden is the free parking lot adjacent to the restaurant.

 

Goldman’s Court

Not kosher

Nahum Goldman 6, Jaffa

Tel. (03) 682-2111 

 

A house of food and culture 

For close to a decade, Caffe Yafo has been a major player in the dining and cultural scene associated with the Jaffa flea market. A venue for music, concerts and lectures, it is first and foremost a full-fledged restaurant, with the added distinction of being kosher. The menu also has an entire healthy section, with quite a few vegan and vegan option choices.

 

Situated on a corner in the heart of the flea market, Caffe Yafo has sidewalk tables as well as an air-conditioned interior. Its kashrut certification makes it a popular choice for tourists, who also appreciate the detailed English menu.

 

For the most part we followed the restaurant’s recommendations, which appear sprinkled throughout the menu in bold print. As befits a kosher dairy restaurant, there are many fish entrees, both from Mizrahi tradition and western-style. According to owner Nir Givon, the fish is always fresh, never frozen.

 

The fish fillet on a bed of black lentils in a cream and white wine sauce with sun-dried tomatoes and garlic confit was beautifully presented and had the taste to match. The portion was very generous—and this can be said of the appetizers and salads, as well as the main courses. The salads come with the house whole grain bread and focaccia from the brick oven where the pizzas are made.

 

Fresh fish at Caffe Yafo
Fresh fish at Caffe Yafo

 

We enjoyed Roni’s salad—iceberg lettuce, red onions, dried cranberries, peanuts, toasted almonds and tiny strands of Manchego cheese in a sweet vinaigrette—as well as our pasta course: sheep cheese ravioli in sun-dried tomato butter with Manchego cheese and pine nuts.

 

There is a limited cocktail menu but an ample alcohol and Israeli wine list. Perfect for the hot summer weather are the refreshing sorbet smoothies.

 

Desserts consists of a few of the usual suspects—chocolate lave cake, cheesecake, creme brûlée, etc.—as well as an interesting take on knaffe, sweetened with orange syrup and candied orange slices.

 

Caffe Yafo caters largely to groups and private functions, but visitors to the neighborhood will also find it a dependable place for a kosher meal or snack.

 

Caffe Yafo

Kosher

Olei Tziyon St. 11, Jaffa

Tel. (03) 518-1988

 


פרסום ראשון: 08.07.16, 18:37
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