Seatara: Taste with a view
Review: Seatara is fine dining in the upscale Sea and Sun complex, where you come for the sunset view and stay for the gourmet food.
The stunning view of the Mediterranean enjoyed by tenants of the luxury Sea and Sun residential complex on the northernmost stretches of beach in Tel Aviv can also be enjoyed from the veranda of Seatara, a restaurant whose menu reflects its posh surroundings.
A meal overlooking the sand and water is best kicked off with one of Seatara’s seven specially cocktails. The Passion Fruit Caipirinha, for example, is a tropical twist on the classic Brazilian cocktail: cachaça, sour mix and passion fruit, served in a tumbler on the rocks. This is a more tart version than the original, but refreshing nonetheless.
The Citrus Cosmo, meanwhile—a blend of citrus vodka, Cointreau, pomegranate, ginger and orange oil—was a pleasingly complex version of the classic cosmopolitan.
Appetizers at Seatara first appear on the menu under two categories: Focaccia and Vegetables. There are four bread-centric appetizers besides the house bread, one of which is Bianca—a white pizza featuring caciotta cheese topped with crystal shrimps, arugula leaves and tiny slices of red chili. There were too few shrimp for our liking, but the effect of the dish was like a very satisfying cheese fondue on a thin, chewy pizza crust.
Although the Vegetables category does list a raw vegetable plate among the cooked vegetable appetizers, four Salads have a whole category of their own. The green salad was a generous bowl of endive, salanova leaves, green beans, pear poached in white wine, Saint Agur cheese and pralined pecans, lightly dressed in an orange vinaigrette. The pecan pieces were barely noticeable, so that particular element of texture was missing, but on the whole, the salad represented a delicious interplay of flavors.
With the exception of the four Pastas, the remaining menu categories—Fish, Seafood, and Meat & Poultry—comprise both appetizers and main courses. Our first choice for an appetizer was the foie gras, so we were very disappointed to learn that it was not available that evening.
Fortunately, our second choice was available: seared red tuna, with asparagus, cherry tomato, mushrooms, chili and yogurt. The barely seared slices of extremely fresh fish were a brilliant hue of ruby red, and as succulent as a fine steak, nicely complemented by the accompanying warm vegetables.
Our first choice of main course was the beef filet with onion cream and spinach with nutmeg. The tender filet mignon practically melted in the mouth, while the delicately seasoned gravy and hint of nutmeg enhanced the meat without overpowering it.
Interestingly, the crab ravioli with crystal shrimps appeared in the Seafood rather than the Pastas category, a nuance that swayed our choice. The largest rectangles of pasta pockets we had ever seen vied for primacy with several giant shrimp (and, strangely, empty skeletons of shell). The ravioli were stuffed with a most delectable crab meat filling, while the plump, flavorful shrimp were bathed in a lip-smacking white wine, garlic and butter sauce.
The separate dessert menu contained many of the usual suspects found in Israeli menus reflecting all budget levels. Our knowledgeable waitress recommended the cheese lemon sphere, which happened to be the dessert that seemed the most unique: a ball of cheese mousse encased in a frosting lemon cream (such that it resembled a scoop of mango sorbet), alongside meringue tuiles and sections of fresh passion fruit. The best part was an unexpected bonus: fresh fruit salad on a layer of crême fraîche.
We had no regrets that we had room for only one dessert between us; it was large enough to share, and not too heavy an ending to a substantial meal. The service was impeccable to the end, and the setting of the timeless view added an extra dimension to an evening that was memorable on many counts.
Not kosher
Sea and Sun
8 Rosenblum Herzl St., Tel Aviv
Tel. (03) 699-6633
