Israeli restaurants in NYC reviewed

The year has barely started, and I am feeling very festive already. My friend G. explained to me on New Year's Eve that whatever happens in the first days of the year is a sign of what the entire year will be like. “If you cry, you’ll have a sad year. If you’re happy, the year will be full of smiles,” G. explained with the newly acquired knowledge of a man with a brand new degree in penny psychology.

His advice seemed to make sense, since I, like other hopeless and desperate people, needed a helping hand to lift me up from a dire situation. And so, I had reached the conclusion that my life requires fundamental change. What they call in the professional lingo a "makeover."

I sat down and drafted numerous plans, things I would like to change about my life, massive changes that will shake me to the core. I pictured myself in the before and after pictures. And as soon as I was done dreaming up these scenarios, I returned to my regular spot by the refrigerator.

New Year resolution 

It was then that realization struck: Change should be based on natural and relative advantages. In my ripe old age I can not change my character, and even in my younger years transformation was beyond me, simply because I lack the necessary character. On the other hand, God gave me a belly, so I might as well do something useful with it.

So it came to pass that I decided on holding a "Bellyful Awards." Like any other glamorous awards show, I will hold my show at the height of award season, and might possibly hold the grand finale alongside the Oscar.

I realized the need to assess the city’s Israeli food is the most acute. Thanks to my constantly empty stomach I visit Israeli institutes of food at least twice a week, and sometimes even three or four times. Recently I felt a shift in these institutions and for once it wasn’t the fan blowing foul smells from the kitchen. If Israeli food in New York used to mean a rickety falafel stand and an out-of-the-way hummus joint, in the last two years Israel started exporting its culinary attributes to the Big Apple.

'Best hummus'

Israeli gourmet restaurants receive rave reviews by various food critics, while smaller restaurants offer home cooked food that is, for a change, not drowning in oil. Even the fast food places supply quick and tasty food which fares well in comparison with its Israeli counterparts.

It looks like New York has been redeemed: after many years where the common complaint was that New York could be perfect if it had the food and beaches of Israel, it seems like we can cross out the food section now. All that is left to do is relocate the Mediterranean beach here, and then there will really be no reason to go back.

Like all other glamorous awards shows, the Bellyful Awards will focus on several categories such as “best hummus”, “most original dish”, “best ambience” and “place most reminiscent of small Israeli town's shopping center.”

In the coming weeks you will read the covert operations reports, during which I will invade all the Israeli restaurants in the city, and while risking my life, taste, check, digest, throw up and find the best places to enjoy quality Israeli food. The location and time of the ceremony itself is yet to be determined, but if the owners of Chick Pea are willing to roll the red carpet in front of their place, we might hold it there.

'Miriam' restaurant

So, without further ado, let us turn to the first and very respectable nominee: The 'Miriam' restaurant in Brooklyn. 'Miriam', which was opened less than two years ago, is one of the best reasons to cross the bridge to Brooklyn. It should be mentioned that the Americans were the first to discover “Miriam”. The food sections of New York Magazine and Time Out praised the restaurant when it opened, creating a huge buzz. I visited the restaurant long after its opening, and can only say that the restaurant kept the high standards and quality of the food.

'Miriam' really is not the place for you if you crave eating hummus with your hands. This is a Mediterranean gourmet restaurant which serves familiar dishes with a certain twist. One of the house specialties is schawarma (lamb meat on a skewer), though nothing about this dish resembles the traditional giant slices of lamb rotating on a huge skewer. Miriam's version is juicy chicken resting on a bed of spinach and crispy pita bread, and garnished with divine amba (mango chutney) sauce. If in the past I avoided amba because of its long lasting odious effects but at 'Miriam' I came to the conclusion that risk is worth it.

To set your minds at ease, 'Miriam' does serve descent hummus. Yet I believe that it is a waste of money and appetite compared to the alternatives.

The appetizers menu includes excellent burekas (stuffed phyillo dough) that are worth ordering. The burekas at 'Miriam' are baked on location and have a crisp outside and deliciously warm filling of cheese or eggplants. The various sauces served with them, include green tahini and garlic sauce add a pleasing look and an interesting twist.

The best main courses, other than the excellent schawarma, are superb fish dishes, particularly the striped bass. The fish is oven-baked to perfection. It is served with string beans, and a side a wonderful herb salad.

Another fantastic dish I spotted among the main courses is the Moroccan lamb tajin. My friend M has labored unsuccessfully for a whole year on finding the perfect tajin recipe. It is quite understandable: it is a complex dish made with lamb marinated ahead of time, and it should be served with good authentic couscous. This week I called M. and informed her she can stop trying to crack this recipe code, because 'Miriam' did it for her. The local tajin is well made: the lamb is juicy with a hint of the wine marinade. The couscous is perfect; tastes wonderfully, but does not steal the show.

While the wine section quite impressive as well, the meal should be concluded with a malabi (traditional Middle Eastern pudding) dessert or the wonderful baklawas (honey and almond pastry).

Surprisingly, 'Miriam' will not burn a hole in your pocket; a full meal is less than USD 50.

Therefore, 'Miriam' is a fine nominee for the Bellyful Awards. The restaurant's name adds an element of nostalgia: The owner’s mother is named Miriam as is his baby daughter. I am tearing up with emotion.

Yaniv Halily is the Yedioth Ahronoth reporter in New York. This column was first published by Yediot USA