A new capital bistro
Despite the tense times in Jerusalem, Rova 5 restaurant opens its doors near Nahalat Shiva; but if the quality of the food is the measure of success, it should be around for many years to come.
These are insecure times in the nation’s capital - especially for restaurants. While several have had to close their doors as fewer Israeli pedestrians are venturing out at night, Rova 5 has decided to buck the trend, opening up recently in spanking new premises in the building that was once called Beit Hamehandess, and later housed the restaurant Spaghettim. The entire compound at the foot of Hillel Street bordering the Nahalat Shiva restaurant district is undergoing extensive renovation; Rova 5 is the first to complete its work and open its doors.
The interior of the bistro is striking: a huge glass etching over the long, handsome bar dominates, while green plants cascading from the ceiling compete for the eye’s attention. A second-story loft adds to the sense of spaciousness; it is nice that there is a comfortable distance between tables. The contemporary pop music playing in the background seems geared to a younger crowd; indeed, a DJ is in attendance on Thursday nights.
As befits an establishment boasting a well-stocked bar, there are no fewer than seven specialty cocktails. Although there are separate English and Hebrew menus for both food and alcohol, the waiter has to read off the cocktails from a handwritten list. As the waiter enumerated them in good English, he told us that the cocktail named Lavender was the one of the most popular: a blend of gin, lavender syrup and lemon that was heavy on exotic garnishes: sprigs of mint, a slice of lemon, star of anise and coarsely ground multi-colored Szechuan pepper. It was a bracing drink, with a pleasantly mellow finish.
We also ordered another cocktail with an intriguing name: Coriander: rum, lemon juice, peach syrup, orange flavoring and coriander, with the same garnishes as the Lavender, minus the pepper. Refreshingly sweet and tart, this unusual drink has a coriander aftertaste that perks up the taste buds,
Regrettably, our first choice of appetizer -- the goat cheese in a crispy coating -- was not available the night we were there; in its stead, we ordered the fried cauliflower in an aioli laced with capers and chives. The al dente vegetable was fried to crispy perfection, enhanced nicely by the complex aioli and the garnishes of sprigs of dill and thin slices of radish. The Rova 5 version of this common Israeli dish raises it to unexpected levels.
Our second appetizer was the shrimp in a butter sauce seasoned with lemon, garlic, parsley and chili peppers, and garnished with sprigs of baby pea. A generous portion of translucent shrimp was bathed in the rich sauce, to which the thin slices of red pepper added just the right amount of heat. As a whole, the dish was reminiscent of Louisiana-style shrimp BBQ; it was a most pleasant surprise to find it replicated in Israel.
For our salad course we chose the multi-colored tomato salad with mozzarella Fresca, dressed with a fig balsamic vinegar. The chunks of red, green and yellow tomato and dollops of soft white cheese lay atop a layer of basil oil and were decorated with drizzles of the syrupy fruit vinegar and torn basil leaves. The juxtaposition of the acid tomatoes, sweet balsamic, earthy basil and chilled cheese made for a wonderful interplay of flavors.
The beef filet was unavailable, but it was no sacrifice to order the prime rib: a 300-gram slab of well-marbled steak smothered in a smoky bordelaise sauce. The juicy, chewy and flavorful meat in the savory sauce was accompanied by a nice selection of grilled vegetables -- Portobello mushroom and Jerusalem artichoke prominent among them -- adorned with a delicate carrot cream. The prime rib also came with light, buttery mashed potatoes and a green salad dressed with balsamic vinegar.
There are several tempting pasta dishes on the menu which, like many of the appetizers, make for excellent vegetarian alternatives. We chose the vegan risotto with seared asparagus, fresh shimeji mushrooms and shallots in a coconut cream and chili pepper sauce. This hearty dish in its Asian-inspired sauce was delicious and satisfying.
There is a limited wine list featuring international and Israeli vintages, including some available by the glass, as well as five domestic and imported beers on tap.
Desserts are also missing from any printed menu: as was the case with the cocktails, the dessert menu is recited verbally by the waiter; similarly, we again listed to his recommendations.
Choice number was the hazelnut panna cotta with Italian meringue, mango cream and hazelnut streusel, garnished with dehydrated passion flower -- all these ingredients creating a beautiful tableau on the plate. The smooth panna cotta tasted like supercharged Nutella, and it paired nicely with the fluffy meringue, mango mousse and crunchy streusel.
The presentation of the second dessert was equally impressive: a large wedge of American-style cheesecake with white chocolate streusel, cream of strawberry and fresh strawberries. So rich, it is a challenge to finish; take some of it home as a sweet reminder of a memorable meal.
Rova 5, which is open from noon til midnight seven days a week, offers business lunches at very attractive prices Sundays-Thursdays until 5pm.
It is a bold move to open a new restaurant in Jerusalem these days; but if the quality of the food is the measure of success, it should be around for many years to come.
Rova 5
Not kosher
Hillel Street 37, Jerusalem
Tel. (02) 623-5547
