Morning is time to say, 'I'm sorry'

(VIDEO) Now is the time to wake up at the crack of dawn to visit Jerusalem’s Nahlaot neighborhood, where the sounds of the Selichot penitential prayers can be heard in the early morning hours from the neighborhood’s many synagogues. While guided tours are popular, you can also do it yourself. Tips and recommendations for a tour with soul

Tali Heruti-Sover and Michal Carmon|Published: 10.10.05 , 13:01

(SEE VIDEO) In the past few years, Selichot tours of Jerusalem have become de rigueur for those in search of spirituality and Jewish roots. Yet Reuven Gafni, an expert on Jerusalem’s synagogues at Yad Ben Zvi, a Jerusalem research institute, believes that the large number of tour groups overwhelm the synagogues, interfering with the experience. He suggests taking your own Selichot tour to get the full, authentic experience.

When to Go

Sephardic synagogues start saying Selichot prayers at the beginning of the Hebrew month of Elul (which falls during September or October), while Ashkenazi Jews begin in mid-Elul. Both Sephardim and Ashkenazim are now approaching the finish line, which is Yom Kippur, so there are only a few days left to see this custom in action, or to say the prayers yourselves.

Selichot prayers are said every night of the week except Friday night. The early-rising Sephardim begin at about 4:30 a.m., while Ashkenazim don’t start until about 5:30. Selichot prayers take about an hour, and end with the Shaharit (morning) prayers.

Where to Go

“There is a reason that Jerusalem’s Nahlaot neighborhood has become a place of pilgrimage during the Selichot period,” says Gafni, “since it is a small and delimited area, between Agrippas and Bezalel streets, and has over 100 synagogues, many of which serve the members of the various Sephardic denominations, and are still in use.”

According to Gafni, another of Nahlaot’s virtues is its proximity to the Sha’arei Hesed neighborhood, which has a great many Ashkenazi synagogues. Anyone wanting to experience both the Sephardic and the Ashkenazi style of prayer can begin in Nahlaot, and move over to Sha’arei Hesed for Ashkenazi Selichot prayers when the Sephardic prayers are over.

How to Go

Gafni recommends arrving at 3:00 a.m. to soak up a little local atmosphere. “It isn’t a good idea to go into Selichot prayers if you were driving a car a minute earlier, with the Reshet Gimmel (Israeli rock) radio station thundering in the background,” he says. He suggests not to start the tour with a tight schedule or a list of known synagogues.

“It’s best to simply show up and to start wandering leisurely among the alleyways, peeking into the open synagogues. The first rule is to go where your legs take you. If you see an open synagogue, go in. Perhaps this is exactly the reason you’ve come here,” he says.

Gafni says experimentating with different synagogues and soaking up the wonder of the place are very appropriate for the High Holiday season, which is known in Hebrew as the “days of awe.”

Yes and No

If you enter a synagogue, be aware of the following rules and recommendations:

Men: All synagogues have kippot for visitors. If you have not brought one from home, take one, and don’t forget to return it.
Women: Come dressed modestly.
Leave your cameras at home so that you focus on the experience, not on documenting it.
Turn off your cellphone and try to speak quietly, if at all.
Don’t sit on the side like an ousider or an inspector. Synagogues are open to everyone. Take a prayer book and find a comfortable spot.
Sit calmly for several minutes. Once you have gotten into the place, the people, and the ambience, continue to sit and take in the full experience. If you haven’t gotten into it, continue to look for “your” synagogue.

According to Gafni, you shouldn’t be embarrassed to return to a synagogue that you have already left. It’s important to remember that the styles of prayer are not significantly different from synagogue to synagogue, and the enjoyment you get from the process is very personal and very subjective.

Some people enjoy the hospitality, others enjoy the architecture, and yet others enjoy the cantor’s singing.

"It’s a good idea to stay in a synagogue that you enjoy, even if you can’t really say why you enjoy it,” Gafni says.

Despite the synagogues’ great openness, and the option of going in and out whenever you want, your leaving during certain parts of the prayer service will cause raised eyebrows, and worshippers may even become angry. One of these parts is during the recitation of the 13 attributes of God’s mercy, which begins with the words, “The Lord! The Lord! A God, Compassionate and Gracious” (Adonai, Adonai, El rachum v'chanun). It also isn’t a good idea to leave during the poem “Lord of Forgiveness,” since it is usually the main attraction.

Recommended Synagogues

For those who prefer to avoid a totally random tour, here are three well-known Nahlaot synagogues:

Ades: An Aleppo (Syrian) style synagogue, located on Beersheva Street. Selichot prayers begin at 5 a.m. Worth a visit because of its special prayer style, because the place is packed with worshippers and guests, and mostly because it is a spectacular synagogue by any standards: The bimah and the holy ark are decorated with mother of pearl, the wall decorations are impressive, and many of the accessories and furniture come from Syria, and cannot be seen anywhere else.

Hesed Verachamim: This is a Jerusalem Sephardic-style synagogue on Shirizli Street where prayers begin at 4 a.m. Worth a visit because of the hospitality, the liturgical poetry sung by chief cantor Moni Armoza, and the architecture of this special and spiritual building.

Bet Yitzhak: This is a Persian-style synagogue on Ovadia Somech Street. Worth a visit because it is small and very colorful. Many stories have been told about this synagogue over the years, some of which can be found in notes left on the bimah by the synagogue’s worshippers.

After Selichot Prayers

Gafni says that after cleansing yourself of all your sins, thinking about yourself, praying, and making requests, there are two things you can do: those with a strong constitution can stay for Shaharit (morning prayers). Anyone not interested in prayers can move on to the fun part following Selichot prayers and go to one of the many bakeries that have opened recently in the Mahaneh Yehuda market.