The neighborhood of Ein Kerem, on the western slopes of Jerusalem, is a lush garden that hides wonderful and enviable houses. No wonder, therefore, that it attracts many tourists who visit the place, mainly on weekends, to marvel its beauty and dine in rural peace. Christian pilgrims, who are not necessarily hungry, frequent its holy sites. This is the birthplace of John the Baptist.
Ein Kerem was an Arab village, but its residents deserted it during the War of Independence and it turned into a new immigrants' neighborhood. In the 1960's, visionary artists discovered its potential and turned it into a coveted place of residence. The following review is too brief to cover everything that Ein Kerem has to offer, but a half-day tour of this special Jerusalem neighborhood should be sufficient.
In pilgrims' footsteps
The Fountain of the Virgin: A tour of Ein Kerem should start on Hama'ayan Street, where pilgrims come to collect water from a spring where, they believe, Mary stopped to drink on her way to give birth in Bethlehem. On top of the spring, sits a 100-years-old Maqam, Muslim house of prayer.
The Sisters of Zion Convent holds a vast space with a silent and beautiful garden. The convent was built by two converted brothers, Theodore and Alfonso Ratisbon, in 1860. It has a guesthouse run by the local nuns. A magical place.
- Church of the Visitation: Recognized by the bronze statues of Zacharias and Elizabeth, parents of John the Baptist. This is traditionally believed to have been the guesthouse where Mary spent a night and where her unborn child was blessed. The church on the ground floor is built inside a grotto with a mosaic floor.
- John the Baptist Church: There are two of those here, one Catholic and one Greek-Orthodox; the first is very well known and contains a cave where the Baptist of Jesus was born. The other is mostly deserted.
- The Russian Village
- After years of seclusion and isolation behind a high wall, the Russian Village of Ein Kerem has recently opened for tourists. In this 140-years-old compound reside some 100 women, most of whom are nuns, and one Monk, Brother Serafin.
Some 100 years ago, German Princess Elizabeth married a Russian prince of the Czar's family. Two years after they married, she vowed to become Russian Orthodox Christian and be buried in Ein Kerem, a place she visited and loved. She also decided to build the church where it now stands. Construction work started but was not completed and the church was left roofless because the princess was murdered during the 1917 Russian revolution.
While touring the site three years ago, a senior Foreign Ministry official felt sorry for the roofless church. He convinced then Prime Minister Ari'el Sharon to expedite construction works. Meetings with the Russian patriarch of Moscow led to the construction of the roof precisely according to the original plan. The festive inauguration ceremony will be held in the coming months.
A visit to the Russian village is most exciting, not only due to the impressive church, but mainly in view of the small and simple houses built around the terraces, serving pilgrims. While touring the place, you can see nuns picking olives, cleaning rooms, and boldly climbing tall scaffoldings to clean the outer walls.
A local cemetery contains the tragic tale of two nuns, a mother and her daughter, who were murdered by an American tourist in a fit of what is know as the Jerusalem Syndrome.
For visits of the Russian Church and other Ein Kerem churches call: The Ein Kerem Legend, Pnina Ein Mor, tel: 972-2-6418682
Tasty tour
Stop to refuel body and soul:
Inbal: A tiny café serving locally-baked pastry, sandwiches, salads, and breakfasts. Kosher lemehadrin; closed on Saturday. 972-2-6446533.
The Ein Kerem Bistro: Works by local artists on the walls, serving pastry, salads, and light meals. Not kosher; 972-2-6430865.
Sweet Ein Kerem: A chocolaterie serving excellent chocolate and ice cream; 972-2-2006660.
Esti Deri's: traditional Moroccan cuisine, open for reserved groups of 20 only; kosher; closed on Saturday; 972-2-6437326.
- Ruti Havilio: An artist who paints on ceramic tiles, capturing the local ambience; works on display in her beautiful house. 972-2-6417912.
- The Daphne Magic: three new guest units for couples and families. 972-54-4274416.
- The Rosary Monastery Guesthouse. Pleasant rooms across from the Fountain of the Virgin, near the Music Center. 972-2-6413755.
- The Ein Kerem Music Center: modestly priced classical music concerts on Friday and Saturday morning. The hall is surrounded by a beautiful garden with romantic benches. 972-2-6414250.