A Night and Day in Nazareth
There are many good reasons to visit Nazareth, and recently another one has been added: “The Fauzi Azar Inn”- an ancient building that has been turned into a simple, pleasant guest house with a painted ceiling and a courtyard that invites relaxation. Tali Heruti-Sover spent a weekend among the churches, restaurants and alleys
In recent months the gates of a special and unique guesthouse have quietly opened. Fauzi Azar Inn is the name of the place located in the heart of the ancient city of Nazareth, and its owner is a blue-eyed young man with the surprising name, Maoz Inon.
We packed our bags and went to check out what the former kibbutznik was doing in Nazareth, and what exactly his place offered guests.
The car easily skipped over the Afula Road, swallowed the curves on the ascent to Nazareth, and slowly lumbered next to the dozen cars on the constantly jammed Paulus Street. We parked at the edge of the old city, according to the exact directions that Maoz gave us and we walked through its alleyways.
A single delicate sign pointed us to a large iron door that had a separate smaller iron door within. This opened and we experienced our first "Wow!": we discovered a large open courtyard whose shaded area was designed for colorful relaxation filled with cushions and mattresses. Families with children were reclining on these comfortable beddings. Everyone looked very satisfied.
A climb up the ancient stairs led us to the top floor. The main hall caused our second "Wow!": A giant painted ceiling extended five meters above our heads. The room was adorned with huge Oriental windows covered with wooden shutters that you can no longer find, from which you can look out over the red tiled roofs of Nazareth. In the background the sound of the muezzin constantly calling for prayers mixed with the slow chimes of the church bells. A pleasant aroma of coffee wafted through the air.
A Zionist guest house
Our room, one of only seven, turned out to be a small attic that was simply furnished. We did not find (thankfully) a Jacuzzi, and a quiet fan served as the air conditioning. The word TV was not uttered. "I do not sell facilities; rather, the atmosphere of the city", Maoz (30, married with a child) explains with a smile. "People come here with open minds and want to experience the slow pace of Nazareth.
"My aim is to get people to leave their rooms, tour, buy labaneh in the market, encounter the spices in a hundred-year-old mill, eat in the restaurants, and to interact with the other guests in the inn with whom they are sharing a kitchen and balconies. In short, to experience something different without having to leave the country", says Maoz.
He arrived in Nazareth after touring the world with his wife. The two, hiking enthusiasts, hiked more than a thousand kilometers in California and then went to conquer the South American trails. "In Israel we also have a beautiful walking trail", he says, "It is called the Israel National Trail. Before we left Israel, we hiked it for 40 days and discovered that it was lacking basic services for hikers such as the simple guest houses that you find on the trails around the world."
During their trip in South America the energetic couple decided to open a guest house on one of the points of the Israel National Trail, and when they returned to Israel they began looking for an appropriate location. "We decided on Nazareth", says Maoz, "because it is a unique place that would allow us to open an even more unique guest house". The tourist council in the city referred them to the house of Fauzi Azar, one of the city's rich men, that was built in 1880. Azar died years ago and since then his magnificent house has stood empty in the heart of the old city. In a matter of weeks, and after a few suspicious inquiries, Azar's daughter was convinced that it was worth appointing Maoz to manage the house. The house was reopened and renovated, and less than half a year ago the inn hosted its first guests.
Basilica of the Annunciation
Today the news travels from mouth to mouth. Israelis and tourists come to the inn and enjoy the unique experience, the Galilean air, and the attractive prices. "I hope that we will be the first pioneers in the old city of Nazareth and on the trail", says Maoz. "I have no doubt that with the right marketing the Israel Trail can become no less a magnet for Israelis and tourists than the Inca Trail in Peru and the Santiago de Compostela in Spain."
Maoz has another dream, to prepare a walking trail called the Jesus Trail, which would leave Nazareth and would be a three-to-five day walking trip through Kfar Tabor, Tiberias and Kfar Nahum. "The hikers would enjoy the trail, service providers from the periphery could make a living, and everyone would benefit from this unique trail," he says.
An Oriental-Yuppie meal and fireworks
We decided to have our Shabbat meal at a restaurant recommended by Maoz. Al Rida is located within walking distance of the inn, in an old house with an arched roof, heavy wooden furniture and a small garden.
The meals offered an interesting combination of the Oriental and world kitchen. For instance, we tasted finely chopped Arab salad, which in addition to the lemon and mint, included yuppie goat's cheese and a lot of croutons.
The mushrooms stuffed with sweet potato were outstanding and the beef dish had us licking our lips. We had dessert at the old sweet shop El Mukhtar on the main road, where they serve all kinds of baklava and knafa (Middle Eastern honey cakes) at ridiculously low prices.
Thanks to the city streets which are closed to traffic, we had a very calm night's sleep. Fireworks, which did not produce such an impressive display but made a lot of noise, sometimes disturbed the tranquility. The children, it is superfluous to add, enjoyed themselves.
Labaneh in the market and a circular tour
In the morning we hopped over to the market. A five minute encounter with the old women who come from the nearby villages yielded half a kilo of labaneh (NIS 4), 10 pitas (NIS 5) and a generous handful of olives that came with cooked cherries and cost a fraction of the price in the supermarket.
Armed with breakfast, we went on a tour with Fauzi, our excellent tour guide, in a circuitous tour of the attractions in the old city. The first stop was the White Mosque built 200 years ago and since then all the sermons given there are about loving your fellow man, peace and unity.
On the floor of the mosque is a large carpet painted with pillars. Between every two pillars sits a worshipper who is joined to a very straight line of worshippers, because "God", according to tradition, "does not like curved lines".
From the White Mosque we walked through the alleys of the market to the Basilica of the Annunciation, where according to Catholic tradition, Mary lived when she received the famous announcement. The beautiful church, built in 1955 on the remains of an ancient church, is full of pilgrims and tourists of all religions, and we spent a long time admiring the impressive mosaics on its walls.
It is worth noting the mosaic donated by the Japanese church which features Mary and her son, round eyed and wearing kimonos that are edged with real gold and pearls.
Near the Basilica of the Annunciation stands St Joseph's Church, that same carpenter who according to the New Testament married Mary after she received the news of her pregnancy from the angel. In the lower section of the church you can still see the ritual bath where, they claim, the Jewish carpenter immersed.
To close the circle it is worth seeing the Greek Orthodox church of the Annunciation. It is a white church decorated with bells, that inside has the springs where according to this tradition, Mary received the announcement. On your way there do not miss a stop at El-Babour - The Mill of the Galilee; a hundred-year-old family business where they grind more than a thousand types of spices, herbs and grains. The wonderful aroma envelops the street.
Three hours of the relaxing tour passed slowly. Tired and happy we easily navigated our way through the alleys back to the guest house only to discover that our satisfied neighbors already booked their rooms for Rosh Hashana. We will also return.
• Fauzi Azar Inn, Old City of Nazareth. Tel: 04-6020469, 054-4322328.
Prices: NIS 200-350 per night. Minimum of two nights during the weekend. Breakfast: NIS 30.
• Tour Guide: Fauzi Nassar Hana 052-2844787. Price of a tour: NIS 300-600.
• Church Hours: Seven days a week 8:00-17:00. The Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation is closed every day from 12:00-13:00.
• Al Rida Restaurant: Al Bashara street, Old City of Nazareth. Tel: 04-6074404. Open Monday-Saturday 13:00-2:00. Sundays 19:00-2:00.
• El Babour Mill: Habankim Street, Nazareth market. Tel: 04-6455596.
