What's Chanukah without latkes?

It's cute. It's small. It's crispy. And it's much more than yesterday's mashed potatoes.

That's the latke, the quintessential Chanukah food. But what exactly is a "latke," and how did it earn its honored place in Chanukah 's culinary tradition? The first clue lies in the Hanukkah story itself.

The origins of Hanukkah date back to 165 B.C. in ancient Israel, when a small but intrepid band of warriors called the Maccabees, managed to quash the three-year reign of King Antiochus, the Syrian-Greek king whose army had pillaged the country and defiled the Holy Temple in Jerusalem.

When the Maccabees sought to rekindle the Menorah at the Temple's entrance, they found only enough consecrated olive oil to burn for a day. And then, according to legend, a miracle happened: Instead of burning for one day, the oil lasted for eight, just enough time for freshly pressed oil to reach Jerusalem.

The following year, the rabbis instituted an eight-day holiday and mandated lighting the eight-branched candelabra (known in Hebrew as a "chanukiah") to commemorate the victory and the rededication of the Temple. Through the centuries, a culinary custom developed to eat fried foods to commemorate the miracle of the oil.

In Middle Eastern and Mediterranean countries, the custom was translated into little puffs or rounds of dough fried in olive oil, served with a sugar or honey syrup (known in Hebrew as "sufganiyot").

But in Russia, Lithuania, Poland and the Ukraine, where winter supplies were scarce and olive oil was nonexistent, Jews celebrated with cheap and plentiful potatoes, grated and formed into patties to be fried in goose fat – thus, the latke (Yiddish for "pancake").

But why stop at potatoes? Today's latkes can also celebrate the wealth of ingredients at our disposal, and a latke party with two or more kinds of latkes can surely add to the festivities.

There are many varieties of the classic potato pancakes - some with coarsely grated potatoes, some with finely grated ones, some with flour and others with matzo meal. Then there are those that are "dolled up" with grated carrots or other vegetables like Jerusalem artichokes.

Here are two classic latke recipes:

Classic Potato Latkes

1 pound potatoes, peeled

1 large onion ( 1/2 pound), sliced in half crosswise

2 large eggs, beaten

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1/2 cup matzo meal

1/4 cup vegetable oil

Grate the potatoes on the medium or fine side of a grater and place in a fine wire-mesh strainer placed over a bowl. Grate the onion on the medium side of a grater and transfer to a separate strainer. Let both stand 10 minutes to drain liquids. Press down gently to extract as much moisture as possible.

Transfer the potatoes to a bowl, add the grated onion, beaten eggs, salt and pepper, and mix well. Fold in matzo meal. Let stand for 10 minutes, while heating oil in a medium skillet.

Scoop up one heaping tablespoon of the mixture and place in the hot oil. Press down gently with the back of a spoon to flatten. Repeat to form 4 to 5 latkes, depending on size of pan, leaving space between them to facilitate turning.

Cook on medium heat until golden, turn over with a spatula (or use two - one from each side for leverage) and cook the other side. Remove and place on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Repeat to use all potato-matzo mixture. Serve warm.

Makes 12 to 14 latkes, 4 to 6 servings. Serve with applesauce or sour cream.

Sweet Potato Latkes With Spiced Maple Syrup

For the Latkes:

1 pound sweet potatoes

2 eggs

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 cup matzo meal

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pinch white pepper

2 to 4 tablespoons light olive oil for frying

For the sauce:

1 cup real maple syrup

1/2 teaspoon peeled, grated fresh ginger root

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pinch of ground cloves

Pinch of salt

Pinch of white pepper

Chopped fresh coriander or mint leaves, for garnish

Dairy sour cream or plain yogurt, optional

Scrub the sweet potatoes, then peel and shred them on the fine side of a grater or in the food processor. Transfer to a wire-mesh strainer and squeeze to remove moisture. Let stand in the strainer or a colander placed over a bowl for 5 minutes.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with a fork and add the sweet potatoes, baking powder, matzo meal, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper. Let stand an additional 5 to 10 minutes.

In the meantime, prepare the sauce: In a small pan combine the maple syrup, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, salt and pepper; heat over low heat and keep warm.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet and add a small ladleful of the batter. Flatten gently and fry on both sides till golden-brown. Add more oil to the pan as necessary, and fry the remaining latkes. Place the latkes on a paper towel-lined plate to absorb excess oil.

Pour some of the heated sauce on individual plates and arrange three latkes on top per serving, or use a serving platter and pass the sauce separately. Garnish with fresh coriander or mint. Serve with sour cream or plain yogurt if desired.

Makes 10 to 12 latkes, 4 to 6 servings.