Get ready to add a few more minutes to your beauty routine. Haircare, it turns out, has moved up a level.
Leading beauty and medical publications, including Allure, Vogue and the Journal of Trichology, have been pointing to a new direction in at-home haircare: not another smoothing serum or nourishing mask, but what some in the industry are calling “biohacking” the hair follicle. In plain terms, that means trying to influence hair growth through the biology of the scalp.
The idea is simple: shampoo, conditioner and a weekly mask may no longer be enough. Just as skin care routines expanded from basic cleansing to acids, retinoids, devices and barrier repair, the scalp is now getting its turn.
The two buzziest trends are scalp oils, especially those containing CBD, and small at-home laser devices that promise to stimulate the follicles. Celebrities have helped push both into the mainstream, but dermatologists say the science is more complicated than the hype.
The scalp becomes the star
Beyoncé helped ignite the conversation when she revealed she has psoriasis and described a haircare routine focused on nourishing the roots. In an Allure feature, she was described as using nourishing oils with CBD extract and advanced laser-treatment technologies.
So what are these methods, and why are they suddenly everywhere?
CBD scalp oils have become one of Hollywood’s most talked-about treatments. CBD is a natural compound extracted from hemp, a cannabis plant variety, and is not psychoactive. It is promoted for its anti-inflammatory properties and is used by some as a scalp treatment for irritation and hair thinning linked to inflammation.
Unlike hemp seed oil, CBD oil is extracted from the plant’s flowers, leaves and stems. In Israel, CBD was prohibited for possession, purchase and sale until 2024, when it was excluded from the Dangerous Drugs Ordinance. Its sale in Israel remains restricted, and it can currently be purchased only with a medical license.
A study published in the International Journal of Trichology examined 31 participants who applied CBD oil to the scalp twice a day for six months. The study reported an average 93.5% increase in hair growth, alongside reduced scalp inflammation associated with some forms of hair shedding.
The theory is that CBD may help by dilating blood vessels, increasing blood flow to follicles and reducing buildup that can affect the roots. Brands such as Leaf + Flower and Outré have become popular in this space. Gwyneth Paltrow has also spoken about incorporating CBD oil into her beauty routine, describing it as a kind of “fountain of youth” for the scalp and recommending gentle evening application with a five-minute massage.
Laser helmets enter the bathroom
The second major trend is at-home laser technology, known as LLLT, or low-level laser therapy. Once mostly available in clinics, these devices have become consumer beauty products for both skin and scalp.
The devices use red light that penetrates the scalp, stimulates follicle cells and may prolong the hair-growth phase. One study involving such a device found a 39% improvement in hair density after 16 weeks of use, with three 20-minute sessions per week. The treatment was reported to be more effective among men and women with androgenetic alopecia, the common genetic and hormonal form of hair loss.
At-home laser devices usually come as helmets, bands or combs. Jennifer Aniston and Kim Kardashian have acknowledged using a Capillus laser helmet, which allows treatment while watching television. Zayn Malik has also spoken in interviews about using at-home laser treatment as part of his scalp-care routine.
Advocates of the trend say the strongest results come from combining methods: applying CBD oil to a clean scalp each evening with a gentle five-to-10-minute massage, and using an at-home laser device three or four times a week.
Some studies and brands promise thicker, shinier hair and less shedding within a month. Experts, however, stress that users should choose quality products, begin with low laser intensity, increase gradually and combine treatment with a diet rich in protein and vitamin D.
What doctors say
“The follicles are located in the deeper layers of the scalp, so to treat the hair, we have to treat the scalp,” says Dr. Libi Kohavi, a dermatologist who specializes in scalp and hair disorders. “With the right treatments for the scalp, we can certainly affect the follicles and from there the hair as a whole.”
But she says diagnosis is critical. Hair loss can come from different conditions, not all of them suitable for oils or devices.
“There are several types of scalp disease,” she explains. “Some damage the hair follicle permanently, some affect it reversibly, and there is androgenetic hair loss, which occurs with age and causes the hair to thin. The follicle becomes thinner until it closes and growth stops. When we talk about oils and lamps, the main effect is on genetic, androgenetic hair loss and the secondary inflammation. That is why diagnosis is so important. If there is another kind of inflammation, a wrong diagnosis can cause irreversible damage.”
Asked whether CBD oil can be compared with established medical treatments such as minoxidil, Dr. Kohavi is cautious.
“Of course there is a difference. Each works through a different mechanism and each has a different effect,” she says. “Minoxidil is a proven medication at a known dose with FDA approval, and the quality of the substance is known. CBD oil comes in varying concentrations, and the medical and research literature on it is still limited.”
She also warns that oils are not harmless just because they sound natural.
“In fact, every woman should be careful about applying oils to the scalp,” she says. “Oil at a certain concentration can cause irritation, burning, blockage of the follicle and damage to hair quality. I do not recommend doing this on your own. The scalp is an organ in the body that is affected by many diseases. It is important to diagnose the cause of thinning and match the right treatment with a dermatologist.”
At-home lasers: useful, but limited
Dr. Lehavit Akerman, a dermatologist, says laser treatment can be effective for hair, but there is a major difference between clinic-grade equipment and home devices.
“Laser treatment for hair is considered good and effective, but there is a substantial difference between laser treatment in a clinic and at-home laser,” she says. “Just like home skin devices, scalp laser devices have lower intensity and are only mildly effective. They are mainly good as a strengthening and maintenance treatment, and they need to be used consistently and over a long period.”
That long-term use may make sense, she says, because hair thinning in men and in postmenopausal women develops over years. But expectations should be realistic.
“You have to take the intensity into account and understand that it will not be able to trigger a process the way clinical equipment can,” Dr. Akerman says. “There is also the issue of use. I also have many home skin-treatment devices sitting next to my bed. I get to them in the evening and do not use them.”
So what should someone with hair loss do first?
“Hair loss is extremely complex, and before anything else, you need to see a dermatologist to check what is causing it,” Dr. Akerman says. “Sometimes it is a deficiency in iron stores, and then the deficiency needs to be corrected. Sometimes it is a thyroid problem, and sometimes it can even be linked to the beginning of Parkinson’s. The first step is to clarify the cause with a doctor and then decide.”
3 scalp warning signs worth checking
1. Heavy shedding
Not your usual shedding. You may notice it on the brush, in the shower or see hair everywhere. If it is clearly more than your normal pattern, it is worth seeing a dermatologist
2. Scalp pain or discomfort
Pain at the roots, itching or discomfort can indicate inflammation and should be checked
3. Visible thinning
A widening part, a receding hairline or a ponytail that suddenly feels thinner are all signs that call for medical evaluation
First published: 02:08, 06.18.26