Yaron Segal, the chef behind Tel Aviv’s 'La Tigra' pizzeria, fulfilled a dream. Together with his wife, Efrat, he set out on a journey through New York’s mythic pizzerias to soak up inspiration and discover new worlds.
The five pizzerias below are stations every fan of Italian food visiting the Big Apple has to stop at.
First stop: Nolita Pizza
Location: 68 Kenmare St. Nolita was once part of Little Italy in New York. Today it is an independent, trendy neighborhood near SoHo.
Style: Classic New York round thin pizza, plus a square pizza pie.
Chef and owner: Tony, who came from Albania, second generation in a family of pizzaiolos.
In this pizzeria, which looks simple from the outside, there is a seating area surrounded by photos of Tony with local celebrities. Even though the place feels neighborhood casual, it sits at a strategic spot for tourists, and the diners are a mix of locals and visitors who heard about it and came to taste.
When we got to the order counter, Tony greeted us and reheated the slices we chose. After he heard we were in the city on a pizza tour, he insisted on treating us to a burrata slice, his signature dish. Tony, a modest guy and a hard worker who shows up every day, welcomed us with a wide smile and explained the differences in preparation between the square pie and classic New York pizza.
We tried a mozzarella slice, a burrata slice and a spicy pepperoni pie. The slices were very crisp, and with every bite we loved hearing the crunch in our ears. The pie was also amazing. The small pepperoni was charred just right and, even though it was relatively thick, we could not stop eating. The fat from the sausage coats the palate and sets it up for the heat in the next bite.
Nolita is one of those pizzerias you have to visit when walking around SoHo and Chinatown. Because it is a gem not every tourist has discovered yet, there is no long line. The vibe is casual and the dress code matches it, sneakers and a baseball cap, like real New Yorkers.
Price: $15 for a slice, a pie and two zero colas.
Second stop: Song’E Napule Pizzeria
Location: 146 W. Houston St., SoHo.
Style: Neapolitan pizza.
Chef and owner: Ciro from Naples, who stopped in New York after a short trip around the world.
We booked a table for the evening and knew we were headed to a Neapolitan pizza restaurant similar to 'La Tigra'. The moment we walked in, we were hit with nostalgia for home and felt like we had arrived back at our own place. The spotted Neapolitan pizzas, the music, the Italian ingredients spread around the restaurant, the photo of Maradona on the wall and even the hostess stand made from half a Vespa, just like ours. Ciro and his smiling crew do an amazing job. The feeling is like being in a restaurant in Naples.
Before the trip I spoke with Ciro. He understood the resemblance between his restaurant and ours and w
as very happy we chose to stop by as part of our pizza journey. We ordered a bottle of red wine, Caesar salad, burrata with prosciutto and a margherita pizza. The starters were fresh, simple and beautifully seasoned. The pizza was classic Neapolitan, thin dough, puffy edges full of air bubbles, baked by a master with perfect precision. At the end of the meal, Ciro sent out a tiramisu he makes in house.
This is a pizzeria you should plan for. It is recommended to reserve and dress for a casual evening, neat but not too formal.
Price: $78 for a tasty meal in a fun atmosphere.
Third stop: York Ave Pizza
Location: 72 East St., Upper East Side.
Style: Classic New York pizza, round thin pies and square pies.
Chef and owner: Billy, a sweet young guy who came from Greece.
After tasting New York pizza and then Neapolitan pizza, we wanted a real neighborhood slice that no tourist knows about. For that I turned to Tal, a close friend who has lived in New York for years, and asked him to take us to a place where people come with the kids to grab an easy bite.
This is a true neighborhood pizzeria with no pretension. The crowd is very mixed, young and old, workers and office people, young families and singles, all gathered to eat good pizza in a simple, modern style.
At the counter Billy welcomed us and was glad we had come. We chose a pepperoni slice, a margherita slice and another slice Billy asked us to try, topped with his Crazy Twister sauce and pepperoni. The slightly spicy sauce combines tomatoes and pesto.
The pizzas were very tasty, lightly crisp, with lots of sauce. The pepperoni was a bit fatty.
Billy’s place is the kind of spot you come to only if you live nearby or you are visiting friends. It feels warm and friendly, and Billy greets everyone with a smile. It works for anyone looking for a casual vibe and a bit of family feeling in a Manhattan that can be cold, because sometimes even a pizzeria can feel like home.
Price: $19 for two slices and two zero colas. The third slice was on the house.
Fourth stop: L’Industrie Pizza
Location: 104 Christopher St., West Village.
Style: Trendy New York pizza.
Even as we entered the street we noticed a New York hobby, waiting in line for something worth it. When we got to the pizza line, we met locals and tourists waiting for the sought after slice. Skilled workers hand out menus with photos of the pizzas to people in line, so by the time they reach the register they know what they want. When we finally got to the counter, we went for a L’Industrie slice with prosciutto and burrata.
The line was fairly long but moved fast, and within 20 minutes we were inside. Unlike the older, more authentic places, this felt like a well run philharmonic orchestra led by a conductor who knows the job.
It starts with polished stainless steel ovens and trendy music, continues with dough stretchers putting on a show by the window facing the line and the giant island in the middle of the kitchen where pizzas are cut, and ends with a shout of the customer’s name when the slice is ready. The crowd watches the spectacle with excitement, and you can tell most conversations are about what is happening in the kitchen.
But we did not come for the trend, we came for the real thing, and that is exactly what we got. This is excellent, ultra thin pizza. Every bite feels dreamy and rewards the anticipation. Because the pizza is so thin, it would not survive sitting in a display case and reheating. It does not need to, since at L’Industrie the customers wait for the pizza, not the other way around.
This is a pizzeria you have to visit to enjoy the show and of course the pizza itself. Sometimes a trend is justified and successful. The vibe is casually hip, so dress the part, good sneakers with a little extra flair will do it.
Price: $21 for two slices and two zero colas.
Fifth stop: Luigi’s Pizza
Location: Park Slope, Brooklyn.
Style: Classic New York pizza.
Chef and owner: Gio, who has become a star over the years.
We came to Luigi’s after watching a Netflix show about the place, and at first we kept a low profile. The second we walked in we spotted Gio sitting to the side. His pizzeria looks like it used to, Formica on the walls and counter, a cash register from the 1960s and soda poured from a machine.
We ordered two slices from one of the counter workers, pepperoni and mozzarella, and stepped outside to understand the story. The pizzas were fun and crisp, as real New York slices should be. Unlike the previous stops, you could not miss the deep flavor of the rich sauce.
Because the pizzas were so good, we went back inside and approached Gio with a bit of Israeli nerve. I introduced myself and told him about 'La Tigra'. We traded experiences about flours, fermentation methods and making pizza. Gio said that despite his Italian roots, he prefers New York’s crisp style.
Once he realized we were in the same field, he let us taste his “real” pizzas, a Grandma pie and a Sicilian pie, traditional square pizzas with different doughs. The Grandma pie is a simple rustic dish made once a week, on Sunday, when you visit grandma. It carries tradition and deep flavors, almost like a tomato stew served on dough. The cheese is barely noticeable, the square crust is relatively thin with air bubbles and very crisp. The Sicilian, on the other hand, is made from dough fermented for three days and is closer to focaccia. The crust is thicker, the sauce is more seasoned and you feel the cheese on top, a classic street food slice.
Gio, amazing and authentic, hosted us like close friends and gave us a feeling of home. Even though he has become a celebrity, he remains a warm, people loving character, above all someone who loves his craft and enjoys making pizzas and talking about them.
This is a pizzeria anyone seeking the heritage has to visit, a place to understand where it all begins. The neighborhood, homey atmosphere is part of the magic.
Price: $13 for two slices and two colas, like in Italy.
Like in Italy
Pizza chef Yaron Segal stands behind 'La Tigra' in Florentin, Tel Aviv. 'La Tigra' is a pizza restaurant that evokes the pizzerias of Naples. It is the only place in Israel recognized by and holding membership in the APN, the Neapolitan pizza association. The team trained in Naples, and all ingredients except fresh vegetables are imported from southern Italy to stay as close as possible to the original.
Segal trained in Italy with master Davide Civitiello. After a long development process, he serves pizza made from dough that ferments for 72 hours in a special proofing room and includes three types of flour. About two weeks ago, a new 'La Tigra' branch opened in the Basel neighborhood of Tel Aviv. Unlike the flagship in Florentin, it starts operating already in the afternoon. For the launch, the Basel branch is also introducing a unique tiramisu menu, the first of its kind in Israel, with five types of tiramisu made in the restaurant’s pastry kitchen and served from a special tiramisu cart in front of diners.
Location: La Tigra Basel, 5 Alcalai St., Tel Aviv.