The first thing most of us do immediately after opening a cosmetic product is smell it. The reason is clear: many brands attract customers through calming, addictive scents. But in recent years, fragrance has become one of the most controversial ingredients in skin care.
Synthetic fragrances, as well as natural ones such as plant extracts and essential oils, commonly used in cosmetics, can contain a cocktail of chemicals that may cause irritation, allergies and even long-term harm. These ingredients are often not disclosed. On cosmetic labels they usually appear under broad terms such as PARFUM, FRAGRANCE or SCENT, without further detail about the fragrance’s components. As a result, it is harder to isolate them, identify the allergen and avoid it.
In addition, fragrance in cosmetic products often masks the natural smell of the ingredients, which can obscure an odor that signals a product is spoiled or expired. This lack of transparency leaves consumers vulnerable to adverse reactions, as they unknowingly expose their skin to potentially harmful substances.
Perfumes and scents in cosmetics are complex mixtures of chemicals. Synthetic fragrances are typically made from petrochemicals and can include compounds such as phthalates, benzene derivatives, aldehydes and toluene. These ingredients are chosen for their ability to mimic natural smells and extend a fragrance’s longevity. Natural scents, by contrast, are derived from essential oils and plant extracts. While often perceived as safer alternatives to synthetic fragrances, they too can trigger adverse reactions in some people. Essential oils contain volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, that may cause skin irritation, allergic reactions and respiratory problems.
The risks of synthetic fragrances
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, fragrance is one of the most common causes of contact dermatitis, affecting about 1 percent of the population. It can disrupt the skin’s natural balance, causing redness and inflammation and worsening conditions such as eczema or acne. A compromised epidermal barrier, which struggles to filter allergens and protect the skin from penetration, may further increase the risk and severity of these effects.
The International Fragrance Association, or IFRA, lists several fragrance ingredients known to cause allergic reactions and stresses the need for regulation and consumer awareness.
Endocrine disruption: Certain chemicals used in synthetic fragrances, including phthalates, have been identified as endocrine disruptors. These substances can interfere with hormonal function, potentially leading to fertility problems, developmental issues and an increased risk of certain cancers. A study published in Environmental Health Perspectives highlighted the widespread presence of phthalates in personal care products and their link to hormonal imbalance.
Dr. Marina Landau, a dermatologist with Maccabi Healthcare Services, notes that respiratory problems are another concern. VOCs released from synthetic fragrances can contribute to indoor air pollution and worsen conditions such as asthma and bronchitis. The American Lung Association has warned of the potential respiratory dangers of inhaling scented chemicals, particularly for people with preexisting respiratory disorders.
Neurological effects: Studies have shown links between some synthetic fragrance components and neurotoxicity. For example, toluene, commonly used in scented products, can affect the central nervous system, leading to symptoms such as headaches, dizziness and, with prolonged exposure, even long-term cognitive impairment.
Dr. Marina LandauWhat about 'natural' scents?
Allergic reactions: Although often marketed as hypoallergenic, natural fragrances can also provoke allergic responses. Essential oils such as lavender, tea tree and citrus oils are known to cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals. A review published in the journal Contact Dermatitis found that essential oils are a significant cause of allergic contact dermatitis, debunking the myth that “natural” always means safer.
Phototoxicity: Some essential oils, especially citrus oils, are phototoxic and increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. When applied to the skin and followed by sun exposure, these oils can cause severe burns and pigmentation spots. Phototoxic reactions result from compounds such as furanocoumarins, which heighten the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.
Respiratory sensitivity: Inhaling essential oils can trigger respiratory sensitivity and asthma attacks in susceptible individuals. Eucalyptus and peppermint oils, often used for their invigorating scent, may be particularly problematic.
Hormonal effects: Despite their natural origins, some essential oils have been found to possess endocrine-disrupting properties. Lavender and tea tree oils, for example, have been linked to prepubertal gynecomastia in boys, a condition marked by the development of breast tissue. This was highlighted in a study published in The New England Journal of Medicine, which pointed to the oils’ estrogenic and anti-androgenic activity.
Most important: be cautious
Given the potential risks associated with both synthetic and natural fragrances, consumers should take a cautious approach when choosing cosmetic products. Several strategies can help minimize exposure to harmful scents:
Read labels carefully: Look for products labeled “fragrance-free” or “no added fragrance.” Be wary of terms such as “natural fragrance,” which can still pose risks.
Patch testing: Always perform a patch test before using a new product. Apply a small amount to the inner forearm or behind the ear and wait 24 to 48 hours to check for adverse reactions.
Choose certified products: Opt for products approved by reputable organizations that ensure ingredient safety and transparency.
While the fragrance industry adds a sensory dimension to daily skin care rituals, it is essential to stay informed about the potential dangers of both synthetic and natural scents. Understanding these risks empowers consumers to make safer choices, prioritizing skin health over the fleeting appeal of a pleasant aroma.
Choosing fragrance-free alternatives not only protects the skin but can also improve overall skin health. By selecting products that prioritize simplicity and transparency, we can ensure a skin care routine that nourishes rather than poses a potential risk.
Dr. Marina Landau, a senior dermatologist specializing in skin rejuvenation and the developer of the MAHUT product line