With rocket fire in Gaza reduced to practically nil, it is much calmer in the southern half of Israel, similar to the North, whose tourist attractions were featured on these pages in the spring.
Heading south might not be the first thought that comes to mind for a holiday in the summer, but the Negev and Eilat are actually terrific destinations all year round. The Negev plateau (Ramat HaNegev) is actually quite cool in the evenings; and the dry heat of Eilat is a welcome break from the oppressive humidity of central Israel, despite the higher temperatures recorded by thermometers.
Moreover, driving to Eilat through the Negev need not be an onerously long journey when broken up with worthwhile stops along the way. What follows, therefore, is one suggested itinerary for a five-day, four-night road trip filled with activity, natural beauty and gastronomic experiences.
Our first stop is barely more than an hour’s drive from central Tel Aviv: a magnificent Byzantine-era mosaic floor, on display al fresco in the administrative complex of the Merhavim Regional Council (adjacent to Gilat Junction). Informative bilingual placards explain the significance of the distinctive figures and designs characterizing this unusual Holy Land archaeological find, which will delight history buffs and art lovers alike.
The impressive mosaic is open for public viewing at no charge all day long (from 07.00-20.00), making it a suitable minor detour whether on the way to or from the Negev/Eilat. Alternatively, it could be part of a day trip outing from the big city.
Continuing south on Route 40 (past Beersheba) – again, just over an hour’s drive – one arrives at Avdat National Park, site of amazing Nabatean ruins, and one of the stars in the firmament of the ancient Incense Route – one of Israel’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The northern entrance to the park is also very close to Midreshet Sde Boker, home to the Ben-Gurion Heritage Institute and desert bungalow of Israel’s legendary first prime minister, who proclaimed the Jewish state’s Declaration of Independence in 1948.
In between the north and south entrances to the Avdat Park, on the opposite side of the road, is Carmey Avdat Farm – our first overnight stop on the trip.
Carmey Avdat Desert Wine Resort
A surprising oasis of lush green vineyards in the brown expanse of dusty desert greets visitors to the Carmey Avdat Desert Wine Resort, one of the agritourism pioneers of the Negev. The tourist complex evolved from the owners’ boutique winery, now more than a quarter-century old and the first to grow grapes and make wine in the region’s challenging soil and climate.
Today, the winery produces a dozen vintages, comprising – most unusually – both kosher and non-kosher wines. Wine tastings for individuals, couples and small parties may be enjoyed every day except Sundays, between 9.00 and 16.00 (large groups by appointment). The best experience is the deluxe wine tasting, which includes a cheese platter featuring products from Kibbutz Be’eri (of the Gaza perimeter), now that the dairy has recovered from the horrors of October 7, 2023.
Another culinary treat is the sunset picnic basket, chock full of bread, cheeses, spreads, salads and three kinds of wine in custom containers. This dinnertime extravaganza was designed to be eaten at dusk from the vantage point atop a trail lined with fascinating prehistoric petroglyphs, drawn on rocks millennia ago.
The premium wares in the picnic basket come from the resort’s Café Mona, whose gourmet dairy and vegetarian products are all certified kosher. After the shop closes – officially at 16.00, but often later – overnight guests have access to an open kitchen, with payment based on an honor system.
Accommodations at the resort are definitely one of the attractions: 14 guest units, many designed with inspiration coming from the shape of barrels in which wine is aged. Other cabins come with hammocks and/or private outdoor whirlpool baths (a.k.a., jacuzzis); cooling plunge pools to beat the heat are accessible to all overnight guests, so the bathing suits you packed for Eilat will come in handy.
Suitably rested and refreshed from a peaceful sojourn at Carmey Avdat Desert Wine Resort, our road trip continues south to Mitzpe Ramon, famous for its location overlooking the Ramon Crater (Makhtesh Ramon), one of Israel’s – if not the world’s – great geological wonders. The quaint town – whose Spice Quarter houses quite a few interesting shops and eateries – is another stop that may be enjoyed on the way either to or from Eilat, whether just for sightseeing and snacking, or for an overnight stay in accommodations ranging from over-the-top luxury to basic campsites.
Mitzpe Ramon really comes to life during its annual stargazing festival, held on the peak dates of the yearly Perseids meteor shower – August 12-13 , although the shooting stars are already beginning to be visible, until late August. Truth be told, however, this brilliant astronomical phenomenon may be beheld from many points in the sparsely populated desert, wherever one can escape the light pollution emanating from urban concentrations.
Where to stay in Eilat
Eilat is undoubtedly a place that mandates at least a two-night stay, if only to justify the time, effort and expense invested in the lengthy drive to the southernmost tip of the country. There is, of course, a broad spectrum of accommodation options, with hotels and hostels leading the way, but more and more visitors are choosing the growing niche of vacation apartment rentals.
There is little doubt that at the very top of the food chain when it comes to corporate-managed apartment rentals has to be 42 Eilat, a spanking new luxury complex right off the main highway (Route 90) entering the city, and halfway between the sprawling BIG Eilat shopping mall and the city’s downtown beach, marina and boardwalk.
Striking architecture characterizes the nine towers that contain 223 apartments in seven categories, ranging from junior suites to duplexes. Each apartment is furnished with every amenity that one expects in a five-star establishment: comfortable king-sized beds, user-friendly climate control, large flat-screen smart TV, and laptop-sized electronic safe for valuables. Free WiFi extends to all guest rooms, as well as public spaces.
Moreover, all apartments come with full kitchens, equipped with the most modern appliances, including ceramic stovetops, microwave ovens, refrigerator with transparent door and espresso machines. Additionally, the cupboards are full of everything needed to prepare and eat meals: cutlery, pots and pans, plates and dishes, and more.
Bathrooms are fastidiously clean, with spacious shower stalls equipped with dual showerheads, pampering (albeit minimal) toiletries and hair dryers. Especially welcoming are the soft, thirsty towels, in bath and face sizes. Additional beach towels to be used poolside are distributed in the reception office.
A hotel is also in the works for the complex, which will result in more facilities and dining options (such as a buffet breakfast, which is not available at present). However, there are grocery stores open day and night just steps away from 42 Eilat, making stocking your temporary kitchen easy and convenient.
Where to eat in Eilat
There is every conceivable kind of place to eat in Eilat – fine dining and casual, kosher and non-kosher, chain outlets and independent establishments – representing a myriad of cuisines. In this article, we present primarily dinner options – but also an excellent one for breakfast/brunch.
We start in chronological order of the day. The comprehensive BIG Eilat chopping mall is home to a branch of the nationwide chain of Café Greg, whose extensive digital menu – in five languages – offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Its Eilat restaurant is a great kosher (mehadrin) option for anytime of the day, with plenty of vegetarian/vegan and gluten free choices, and a kids menu.
We elected to have brunch there, with fabulous entrées: Norwegian waffle with smoked salmon, and French brioche with truffle butter and mushroom Alfredo sauce. They were filling enough to make us forgo a selection from the array of tempting desserts, and were washed down with natural fresh-squeezed juice and good coffee.
Just across the street from 42 Eilat is the churrascaria Casa do Brasil, a paradise for carnivores. Although one can order à la carte steaks, the recommendation is the “running skewer” extravaganza: all-you-can-eat cuts of beef carved straight off the skewer at your table, South American-style. Along with unlimited side dishes, it is a belly-busting experience that any meat lover will enjoy and remember.
There are dishes for those who do not eat meat as well, and a kids menu for smaller portions. A soundtrack of samba music livens up the atmosphere.
Another must-try for meat lovers is Hamburger at the Whale, whose name suggests it all, although not the eatery’s interesting origins. Livyatan (Hebrew for whale) opened in 2016 as a fine dining restaurant – one of the best in city – but the pandemic took its toll, causing a reimagining and reinventing, into a gourmet hamburger joint.
The pedigree is important, and the proof of the pudding is the eating. One bite of any of the 10 giant hamburgers on the menu will convince you that there is such a thing as a usually mundane hamburger that qualifies as a culinary experience par excellence. Moreover, there are variations of bun sandwiches for non-meat-eaters as well, plus mouthwatering side dishes. Not less important, perhaps: a satisfying meal here will not break the bank.
Get the Ynetnews app on your smartphone: Google Play: https://bit.ly/4eJ37pE | Apple App Store: https://bit.ly/3ZL7iNv
Last but not least, a neighborhood favorite that has turned into a citywide phenomenon is Fortuna Coollapizza – sort of a metamorphosis in the reverse direction from what was described above. This is a pizza parlor that has never compromised when it comes to using the best ingredients and techniques to create arguably the best pizza in Eilat – and applies the same high standards to its homemade pastas and the sharing plates in the “Something else…” section of the menu (which can be found in English on the website that is otherwise all in Hebrew).
Fortuna – Italian in spirit, but with Mediterranean touches – is yet another place on our list that is noteworthy for its affordability. And like Whale, it – along with local standout Pedro (the subject of a bonus review on these pages previously) – is on the list of places in Eilat recommended by acclaimed Chef Ohad Levi.
What to do in (and around) Eilat
As a resort city, there is much to do in Eilat and its immediate environs – more than enough to occupy a couple or a family for more than just a weekend, or even a week. A lot depends, of course, on whether you are traveling with children or not; if you are not traveling with small children, for example, one unsung pleasure is lounging poolside at your hotel Sunday-Wednesday, when families with toddlers and rambunctious youngsters have departed after the weekend.
If you are traveling with children, Eilat does have a large water park, Waterland, with no fewer than 23 slides, separate play areas for children, and activities in the evenings as well. Although to be fair, one need not travel so far to spend a day in a water park, when there are alternatives in central Israel as well, such as the one in Shfayim, between Herzliya and Netanya.
A particularly fascinating and educational excursion outside the city is to the Timna Valley, in particular Solomon’s Pillars, whose adjacent ancient copper mines were discovered and excavated by our Egyptian forbears seven millennia ago. Begin your explorations at the Timna Park visitors’ center, and get information there about other desert activities as well, including sand bottle-filling, cycling and pedal boating on the artificial Timna Lake.
A activity that will appeal to adults and children alike is a voyage in the gulf on the Israel Yam Glass Bottom boat. For two hours, passengers will cruise the open sea and hover part of the time over the famed coral reef, observing the colorful tropical fish and marine life from the comfort of an air-conditioned vessel.
There is great scenery above the watery surface as well, and guests enjoy close-ups of the shore’s dolphin enclosures and several beaches that extend southwards from the city towards Sinai. One of them is Dekel Beach, a well-tended strip of sand with a welcome walkway into the water that eases the pain of treading on the stones under the gently lapping waves.
There is an unexpected perk to sailing on this particular glass-bottomed boat. The captain claims in his announcements over the loudspeaker that the onboard snack bar has the lowest prices in the city, whether on land or at sea. And sure enough, it’s true! (Another money-saving tip: it is cheaper to purchase tickets for the cruise on the boat’s website than at the ticket counter at the pier.)
And if we are talking bargains, it is no secret that one of the attractions of the city is shopping, since Eilat is a free trade zone – meaning, no V.A.T. is charged on goods purchased within the city. At current taxation rates, the translates into an 18% discount on every consumer item you buy. But here’s an additional savings tip many people are unaware of: Eilat has better than average prices on wines, spirits and beer (with greater variety, as well) sold in liquor stores.
The road back home
Regardless of which stops you make along the meandering way home, one last gastronomic treat is in store if you plan the drive around a meal – lunch or dinner – at Cramim House of Food and Wine, a fine dining restaurant that is one of Beersheva’s finest (and now the flagship of a small chain). Known for its seasonal menu ensuring that ingredients are always fresh, as well as its very generous portions and its private label wines available only in Cramim establishments, a repast here would have to be considered in the category of a splurge.
The extensive bilingual menu devotes an entire page to appetizers and starters, and another whole page to main courses. Whatever else you choose to order, don’t miss the house’s date-rye bread, a specialty that is no less than scrumptious.
The writer was a guest of the featured establishments. However, all opinions are his own.