In a historic step at Avdat National Park in southern Israel’s Negev Desert, Israel Nature and Parks Authority staff took another stride last Saturday to restore a 1,500-year-old legacy back to the country.
During the Byzantine era, the Negev was a global hub for wine production, with historians marveling at its desert vineyards. In September 2023, the heritage vineyard at Avdat was inaugurated, planted with seeds over 1,000 years old, aiming to revive this ancient tradition.
Byzantine grapes growing at Advat National Park
(Video: Herzl Yosef)
Researchers from the University of Haifa, studying the collapse of the Byzantine Empire, discovered grape seeds in a sealed cave at the Avdat archaeological site years ago. Determined to resurrect what was once considered the world’s finest wine, they identified the genetic traits of these ancient vines, setting the stage for this ambitious project.
The harvest of the vineyard’s Dabouki grape variety was done by hand, led by Dr. Lior Schwimmer, Israel’s southern district heritage officer and regional archaeologist. “The Byzantines in the Negev were a powerhouse,” Dr. Schwimmer explained.
“They produced wine in the lowlands and coastal plains, but doing so in the Negev was extraordinary. Before then, the Negev yielded little beyond goats or copper. Yet they managed to produce wine on a massive scale, millions of liters and export it to Europe.
“There are many theories about how that wine tasted. It was made differently, without sulfur. Today, we might call it unpalatable. We don’t really know. Now we use cold-crushing techniques, even clay vessels and we’ll get there too. The next step is to recreate their production methods using ancient tools,” he said.
Dr. Schwimmer added with excitement, “We harvested using ancient methods, and not all the grapes were ripe. That’s typical of ancient varieties, which ripen at different times. We had to taste nearly every cluster to decide whether to leave it or pick it.” In total, about 20 kilograms (44 pounds) of grapes were harvested at Avdat, enough for roughly 12 bottles.
Those eager to secure a bottle will need patience, as this is still an experiment. Alongside the Debuki variety, the vineyard includes Bar and Siriki grapes across seven terraces. “It’s not a large quantity, just a few dozen kilos to give us insight into the process. In two or three weeks, we’ll harvest the Bar and Siriki,” Dr. Schwimmer said.
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The wine is being crafted by Gidi Talmor, a high-tech professional from Moshav Lachish who produces a few hundred bottles of homemade wine annually, sourcing grapes from Negev or Zichron Yaakov farmers. “The way I make wine aligns with the vineyard’s story,” Talmor said.
“I produce it without external interference. Modern winemaking involves filtration, shading, sulfur and yeast. In ancient times, they used clay jars, not wooden barrels, which alter the grape’s flavor. I keep it simple, letting the grapes and nature do their work. Here’s hoping for the best.”
Wine-making process at Moshav Lachish
Researchers, now doubling as farmers, are supported by Pinto Winery in Yeruham, which hoped to join the initial experiment but couldn’t due to the vineyard’s orlah status, a Jewish law prohibiting fruit use in the first three years.
Next year, the winery will participate, as the vineyard will be kosher. The Bar and Siriki harvest will be shared with Negev Highlands wineries. “Next year, the vineyard will be usable and we’ll dive deeper into the experiment,” Dr. Schwimmer promised.
Israel’s Nature and Parks Authority has also collected cuttings from ancient fig trees in Negev orchards, including Nahal Akrab and Hamran Mount, alongside olive cuttings from Har Boker and Nahal Zavitan, to be planted in the coming months. Combined with ancient pomegranate trees.
Dr. Schwimmer estimated the experiment will yield about 100 bottles, with a goal of 800 bottles next year. “I’m incredibly excited. We’ve been working on this for two years, with a grape variety not grown here for centuries.
“Everything is a first. This vineyard is like a baby. Holding a bottle of wine feels like a distant dream but it’s getting closer. Ultimately, we dream of a clay jug of ancient Byzantine wine, taking a sip and saying, ‘Wow, that’s delicious.’”