Autumn leaves have begun drifting into the crystal-clear waters of Ein Hardalit, and Israeli travel blogger Hen Yosef arrived just in time to enjoy the scene. After two years away from one of her favorite water trails because of the war, she returned to the Western Galilee, changed into her swimsuit and stepped into the stream to discover what had changed.
The short answer: almost nothing. The water is still clear, lush vegetation still surrounds the stream, the fish are still swimming, and the badly damaged access road remains as frustrating as ever.
"I hadn't been there for two years because of the war, and I really missed the place," Yosef, a veteran blogger specializing in Israel's natural springs, told ynet.
"I was looking for something refreshing for these wonderful days between seasons, before winter arrives. A fun autumn water trail that everyone can enjoy, from young children and families to couples. Something easy, with magical little spots along the way."
"Ein Hardalit, along the Kziv Stream, is one of the most enjoyable water trails we have in northern Israel. Lots of people know about it, but I hadn't seen it in such a long time, and I really missed it."
Ein Hardalit is a freshwater spring in the Western Galilee that feeds the Kziv Stream, a watercourse winding through one of northern Israel's most scenic valleys.
"The best thing about Ein Hardalit is that you're literally in the water within two minutes," Yosef said. "Right at the beginning, there's a lovely shallow pool very close to the parking area. There are shaded sections and sunny spots, and you can walk through the water, take the dry path or combine the two."
"If you walk along the dry trail, there are plenty of places where you can get into the water. And if you want to do the entire hike in the stream, that's a great option too."
According to Yosef, the water is shallow enough for children to enjoy much of the route.
"The water really isn't deep. Kids can happily walk through it. I don't think it went above my knees, although don't quote me on that because the final section might be a little deeper. But along most of the trail, the water is shallow."
"I didn't walk the entire route in the water. We spent part of the time on the dry trail, and whenever we spotted a beautiful place, we got into the stream."
Yosef walks through the shallow water
(Photo: Courtesy of Hen Yosef)
Ein Hardalit; a refreshing dip before autumn
(Photo: Courtesy of Hen Yosef)
Ein Hardalit
(Photo: Courtesy of Hen Yosef)
An autumn paradise with water still warm enough for a swim
Summer may be over, but what about the water temperature? "Stop worrying, the water at Ein Hardalit is still pleasant for swimming," Yosef said. "It's cold, but not too cold. And you can really feel autumn there. I was bathing in the stream when dry leaves suddenly started falling on me. You can actually feel the changing season, and it's amazing."
Yosef says anyone hoping to enjoy Israel's natural springs before winter should not put off their visit. "The season for swimming in the springs will soon be over, so we need to make the most of these last few weeks. Ein Hardalit is a wonderful recommendation for the coming weekends."
Despite its name, Ein Hardalit has nothing to do with the yellow mustard flower, known in Hebrew as hardal. The word hardalit, which appears in the Mishnah, refers to water flowing down a mountainside. That is how the spring along the Kziv Stream got its name.
The trail is lined with impressive Oriental plane trees, whose leaves change color in autumn, as well as willow trees. The surrounding Mediterranean woodland is rich with oaks, terebinths, bay laurels and carob trees.
"The water is incredibly clear, and when you combine that with all the vegetation around you, there's something wonderfully wild about the place," Yosef said.
"It's an easy, enjoyable trail, full of magical little corners that feel almost like a jungle. You're walking along, getting your feet wet in crystal-clear water, completely surrounded by greenery."
"There are places along the route where you can have a picnic, and plenty of beautiful spots to stop beside the water. Most of the trail is quite shaded, so even when it's really hot outside, it offers a genuine escape from the heat."
Where to swim, where to stop and what families should know
For families with young children, Yosef recommends staying near the beginning of the trail, where the water is particularly shallow. "If you're visiting with children and looking for somewhere family-friendly, you can focus on the first few spots, where the water is really shallow and lovely."
"Anyone looking for something a little deeper, whether couples or groups of friends, should continue about 20 minutes along the trail to the places where the stream widens."
"There are rocks along the sides where you can sit, surrounded by all this incredible vegetation. I just found myself sitting on a rock, enjoying the wonderfully soothing sound of the water."
And what about the fish?
A childhood memory of Ein Hardalit, involving a few small bites from curious fish, made the question unavoidable.
"Of course there are fish," Yosef laughed. "Every natural body of water has fish, and there's no getting around that. It never bothers me, and I didn't notice the fish bothering me there."
There is, however, one part of the experience that Yosef had hoped would improve during her two-year absence: the rough access road leading to the Ein Hardalit parking area.
"I was really hoping they would finally fix the access road, and unfortunately that hasn't happened," she said.
"The road is in terrible condition. There are potholes, and you have to drive very slowly. But you can get there in a regular car. You just need to drive slowly and carefully. It's about time they repaired that road, and the sooner the better."
Before setting out, Yosef has two final pieces of advice for visitors.
"I recommend bringing shoes or sandals suitable for walking in water, and of course bringing garbage bags, taking all your trash with you and keeping the place clean."
How to get to Ein Hardalit
From Kabri Junction, drive north toward Shlomi on Route 70. Turn east onto Route 8911 toward the communities of Manot and Avdon, then continue onto Route 8913.
Before crossing the Kziv Stream, turn right onto a narrow road marked with green trail signs. Drive carefully for approximately one kilometer until you reach the parking area near a Mekorot water facility.
You can also enter "Ein Hardalit Nature Reserve" into Waze. The access road is uneven and full of potholes but remains passable for ordinary passenger cars driven slowly and carefully.
From the parking area, walk back toward the access road and turn left onto the trail. After a few minutes, you will reach the first pool.
From there, you can continue along the dry path and enter the water at various points, or choose to walk directly through the stream.
Important: There are no lifeguards at Ein Hardalit. Visitors enter the water at their own risk.