Israeli cuisine was among the celebrants at the Michelin Star Awards ceremony for the best restaurants across the U.S., held last night (Tuesday) in New York City.
Once again, Shmoné’s single star continued to shine, with the Israeli restaurant by chefs Eyal Shani and Nadav Greenberg in New York keeping its place on the prestigious list it joined last year. In typically Israeli fashion, they arrived late to receive the coveted star — which signifies “high quality cooking” — wearing tuxedos, much to the organizers’ surprise.
The Michelin guide described Shmoné, "This small, sleek space punches way above its weight with dazzling neo-Levantine cuisine. Many kitchens boast about using fresh ingredients, but Shmoné takes that philosophy to another level, creating a new menu daily (though some items stick around).”
“The cooking relies on the grill all the way through to dessert, where grilled figs atop Chantilly cream have made an appearance. Dishes aren't repeated but they're certainly memorable, as in thin slices of hamachi or flatiron Wagyu slid off a skewer tableside and boasting smoky tenderness.”
“The flavors are impressively dialed in and make for a focused meal that is surprisingly approachable and humble. The interior has a celebratory ambience — snag a seat at the counter for views of the bar and open kitchen.”
Another representative of Israeli cuisine is Galit in Chicago, which also received a Michelin star. Chef Zachary Engel, who trained at Alon Shaya's restaurant in New Orleans, brings what the guide calls a “personal brand of modern Middle Eastern cuisine.”
“His prix-fixe allows diners to make their own selections from a range of options. A generous first course kicks things off: Creamy hummus with brisket and salatim (spreads and pickles) accompanied by just-cooked, flame-kissed pita,” the guide read.
“Even familiar favorites like crackling-crisp falafel with mango labneh offer surprising depth. The team’s impressive intentionality extends to its beverage program, as esoteric wines from Armenia, Lebanon, Palestine, and Israel tell their own stories and make for beautiful pairings.”
Several Israeli representatives in New York were highlighted in the Bib Gourmand Award, which doesn’t grant stars but recognizes “good quality, good value cooking,”, such as "Miss Ada" by chef Tomer Blechman. Also featured was Tanoreen, run by Rawia Bishara, sister of former MK Azmi Bishara, who fled to Qatar after espionage allegations.
Jewish cuisine also had its moments with restaurants like the fusion Shalom Japan, blending Jewish and Japanese influences, and classic spots like Katz's Delicatessen and Russ & Daughters
Located in Washington, D.C., Sababa also received accolades. “’Sababa,’ which means ‘cool’ in Hebrew slang, is exactly as advertised. Sharing a wall and connected by a gorgeous zinc bar to Bindaas next door, this ode to the Middle East is awash in Mediterranean tiles. But despite the hip digs, it’s all about food here.”
“The fine-tuned menu features Israeli salads, dips and kebabs, but small plates are its heart and soul. Start with salatim, a five-salad starter. Then choose from dishes such as charred eggplant with herbed labneh, fried cauliflower with tahini and raisins or pomegranate-glazed chicken liver,” the guide added.
“The list goes on, but one thing to never skip is the hummus. It’s so much more than the usual that it’s even listed as a daily special. Keeping in line with the spirit is their Israeli- and Greek-focused wine list.
Denver’s Ash'kara led by chef Reggie Dotson was recognized as well. "At this brightly hospitable neighborhood spot, Chef Reggie Dotson offers up an exploration of contemporary Israeli cuisine, pulling in influences from the Mediterranean, North Africa and Middle East.
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“The menu leads with mezze, featuring top-notch versions of familiar staples like hummus, babaganoush and falafel, paired with excellent wood-fired whole-grain pita made from heritage wheat. Dinner offers more substantial fare, as in savory tagines with eggplant or lamb tenderloin.
“The cooking is vegetable-forward, and takes pains to accommodate all dietary restrictions (there's even a gluten-free pita option), but there are no gimmicks here, just thoughtful, full-flavored dishes made with high quality ingredients and a bit of extra style.”