It is unclear why Ashkenazi food has such a bad reputation. Smoked fish, matzo balls, kreplach and cholent are true delicacies when made well. And at Shmulik Cohen, the veteran Tel Aviv restaurant, they are made exceptionally well. Ahead of the new year, we enjoyed a royal feast of Jewish food. Yes, there was also gefilte fish — and it was the prince of the table.
If the restaurant world borrowed terms from architecture or art, Shmulik Cohen would have been declared a heritage site years ago. That is not to say everything is flawless. In our meal, some dishes shined more than others. But the overall experience was as rewarding as a visit to a celebrated museum — leaving flavors and memories that are perfect for closing one year and opening the next.
What could be more fitting for Rosh Hashanah than dining at what is likely the oldest restaurant in Israel? Shmulik Cohen is about to celebrate its 90th birthday and proudly serves Jewish cuisine, meaning Ashkenazi, Eastern European dishes. Over the years, this kitchen has become unfairly synonymous with drab and mediocre food. Despite the bad PR, many of its dishes have survived for generations and entered the modern Israeli kitchen: schnitzel, kreplach, matzo balls, smoked and pickled fish, egg and potato salads, chopped liver. Even less popular dishes, such as gefilte fish, when done well, are winners.
A place worth preserving
One problem stood out during our visit — the first impression. From the street, the restaurant’s exterior looks shabby, uninviting and almost hidden. For a place with so much history, that feels wrong. The idea may have been to create contrast with busy Herzl Street in south Tel Aviv and give the sense of stepping into a different world, but it does not work. The surprised looks we got upon entering were odd too — it was only an early weeknight, and the restaurant was empty. It took a few minutes until the place switched into restaurant mode. Once it did, its charm was clear.
Throughout the evening, delivery drivers came in every few minutes to collect orders. The dining room may not have been crowded, but the food was flying out the door. A good sign.
Even before the food, the walls demand attention. Alongside striking works by Israeli artist Menashe Kadishman and others hang endless photographs of old Tel Aviv and dedications from the great and powerful: prime ministers, ministers, generals, cultural icons.
Ashkenazi also know how to set a table
The menu offers all the classics — generous starters at fair prices and heavier meat dishes for around 100 NIS and up. Service deserves special mention: professional, warm and knowledgeable. The waitress explained unfamiliar dishes in detail, and when we ordered too much, she said honestly, “You’ve ordered enough. Finish this, and if you want more, we’ll be happy to add.” Such candor is rare and shows real confidence.
Because of the prices of the main dishes and the appeal of the starters, we opted for many first courses and one main — the full cholent.
Within minutes, the table filled with good bread, cabbage salad, pickles (though homemade would have been better), a lemony dill potato salad with no mayo, hummus, sweet beet salad and eggplant with mayo. The chopped liver, 39 NIS, was excellent, enriched with fried onions and topped with gribenes (crispy chicken skin cracklings). The egg salad, 39 NIS, also topped with gribenes, was less impressive and could have used more seasoning.
House-made lemon vodka shots arrived between courses, confirming once again: they know how to host here.
The herring, 39 NIS, was rosy, perfectly cured and delicate, but the star was gefilte fish, 32 NIS — moist, subtly sweet, topped with carrot and served with sharp horseradish. A true delight.
Next came chicken soup, 38 NIS, with everything: kreplach, matzo balls and noodles. The kreplach, essentially Ashkenazi wontons, were well made; the matzo balls brought instant holiday nostalgia. But the broth itself disappointed — thin and lacking depth. This dish deserves an upgrade.
Finally, the cholent arrived, 116 NIS — a hearty Sabbath stew with beans, barley, a large cut of beef and kishke (a traditional stuffed dish, served here without casing as a rich patty). It was outstanding, deeply flavorful and comforting.
A sweet ending
Though full, we tried dessert. The apple compote, 32 NIS, was refreshing and delicious, while the sweet noodle kugel, 38 NIS, suffered from overcooked noodles.
We left deeply satisfied. This was authentic, honorable Eastern European Jewish food, served in a dignified setting with excellent service. White tablecloths, flavors and hospitality reminiscent of a grandmother who knows how to cook. Some things could improve — the soup, the exterior, more young faces in management and service — but overall the verdict is clear: Shmulik Cohen is a culinary heritage site.
Here’s to a sweet new year, better than the one before.