Israeli pride in London: “Oren,” the restaurant of chef Oded Oren, has entered the Michelin Guide in the Bib Gourmand category, which highlights restaurants offering good quality and good value.
It is not the first time Oren’s restaurant, which he opened six years ago in East London, has appeared in the guide. In recent years, it maintained a steady presence in the recommended restaurants category. This is the first time it has received a Bib Gourmand distinction, signaling not only quality but a place worth seeking out.
In a city like London, where the Michelin Guide reviews thousands of venues and only a few stand out, inclusion in the guide, even without a star for now, is considered significant recognition for an independent chef. The Bib Gourmand designation marks culinary excellence at relatively reasonable prices.
“I’m excited,” Oren told ynet. “At 50, recognition like this warms the heart. When an institution like Michelin thinks we’re relevant, that’s a big achievement for the staff. Michelin matters to the kitchen team too. I have a 28-year-old chef who’s very excited about it.”
Oren did not arrive in London as a celebrity chef, but as an experienced one with a long track record in Israel’s culinary scene. He worked at prominent restaurants such as Turkiz, where he served as head chef for many years. About 15 years ago he moved to London and worked as a private chef before deciding to open a restaurant bearing his family name.
Months later, the coronavirus pandemic disrupted his plans, but the restaurant survived and became a sought-after destination. It operates in Hackney, in east London, a lively area that remains relatively accessible in terms of pricing.
Although Oren’s roots are clear, he avoids defining his restaurant as Israeli.
“I’ve never talked about Israel in the context of the restaurant. If someone asks where I’m from, I say I’m from Israel, and that’s it. My menu isn’t Israeli food by definition. It’s my interpretation of food I love and know.”
Asked about influences from home, he said: “There’s tahini and Mediterranean influences and memories of flavors from the Middle East, but I try to work with local, carefully sourced ingredients. Fish, meat and dairy come from regional suppliers.”
Oren built his business cautiously, detached from political noise. He speaks little about politics and says he has not encountered boycotts, protests or threats from pro-Palestinian organizations. Still, receiving recognition from a respected international guide at a time when Israel and Israelis face criticism abroad carries added weight.
“It has always been important for me to shine in food, not politics,” he said. “I haven’t encountered hostile treatment. I was given an opportunity to live and make a living here because of who I am, not where I’m from. Maybe there are people who don’t come because of that, and if someone doesn’t want to come because I’m Israeli, then don’t come. From the first moment I arrived here, even before the war, I made sure not to link my food to politics.
Asked how he maintains affordable pricing in London, Oren pointed to location and strategy.
“The restaurant is in Hackney in east London, where real estate is relatively less expensive than in other areas. That’s part of the charm. You can eat high-level food here without paying ridiculous prices. In general, you can’t really be ‘cheap’ in London, but even compared to other restaurants in our area, we’re accessible in price. It’s been a tough year for the restaurant industry in London, not just in Israel. New restaurants keep opening and competition is huge, even though the situation is challenging. It’s not obvious to remain relevant after six years.”
The restaurant is not Oren’s only venture in London. About three years ago he opened a deli in east London, about a 15-minute walk from the restaurant. There, the Israeli identity is more pronounced.
“The deli is half a Jewish deli,” he said. “I sell challah, matzo balls, babka, holiday foods. That’s where I connect to my roots. I never thought I’d make that kind of food, and certainly not abroad.”
The clientele, he said, includes many local Britons, not only Jewish customers. “It’s been incredibly successful with locals. We have hummus, matboucha, tirshi, matzo balls, egg salad, chopped liver. I also sell the products to other businesses, and demand keeps growing. The business is expanding slowly. I’m happy to bring traditional food connected to the kitchen I grew up in. That’s where I can connect to my roots.”
Is there a chance you will return to Israel and open a restaurant?
“No. I’m sad and it’s hard for me with what’s happening in Israel, and I’ve taken everything that’s happening very hard in every sense. I’ve also gone through two emotionally difficult years here because of the situation and the war. It affects you even if you’re not in the country. At first I was anxious. I didn’t know if people liked me or would boycott me. It’s painful to think that someone might boycott me because I’m Israeli.”